Windows 10 doesn't boot or freezes (been working on this for a while...)

[TheDiagGuy]

In my BIOS, I set up my computer to boot whenever power is detected after not having power. IE: a power outage. As soon as I connected the power cable to the PSU, the computer attempted to boot when I hadn’t hooked up the HDMI or Mouse/Keyboard or WiFi antenna. I got rid of that setting though after that first failed boot. This morning I attempted to boot it and it booted on first boot, but last night it did not boot on first try, but after forcing shut down, I didn’t have to wait the 10 seconds with power off before attempting again. Before I installed the new PSU, when I would force shut down after first boot attempt failed and tried to boot it again right away, it would fail again. I would have to wait approx 10 seconds with power off before I could power on with a successful boot.

In reference to the EDIT feature you mentioned. I am using a computer to type my responses, and it wont let me edit posts after a certain amount of time. Believe me, I am no noob to forums, and I know to edit my last post before posting new posts, but since this site doesn’t seem to allow me to edit after a certain amount of time, I really had no other option but to post new responses. Is this set up because I am new to the forum? Or is it like this for everyone?

[phillpower2]

Makes sense now, not many folk use such BIOS settings these days.

As soon as I connected the power cable to the PSU, the computer attempted to boot when I hadn’t hooked up the HDMI or Mouse/Keyboard or WiFi antenna.

That is not good and to avoid potentially shorting something out attaching the power to the wall socket should not be done until all peripheral cables have been securely connected, the only devices that can be safely connected when there is power going to the computer are referred to as being hot swappable as are many external USB HDDs, even plugging in the screen to the GPU when the smallest amount of charge is present can short out the MB.

last night it did not boot on first try, but after forcing shut down, I didn’t have to wait the 10 seconds with power off before attempting again.

Does the above mean that the computer did not boot into Windows but instead remained powered up with fans spinning and a black screen.

Not sure what is going on with your edit feature as you should be able to edit any of your posts as long as the thread is still open.

[TheDiagGuy]

Thanks for letting me know that, I’m still pretty green as you can see…

Yes, when I say “doesn’t boot” I mean that it does not boot into Windows and there is no output from the GPU as my monitor says “No signal” The LEDs all light up and the fans spin. Also, I have waited to see if I can shut the computer down by pressing the power button on the case (as in, not holding it to force shut down) to see if it would shut down to test and see if I’m just not getting GPU output but the rest of the rig is working correctly.. Does not shut down like normal, always have to force shut down.

Attached is a picture of me not being able to edit.

[phillpower2]

Thanks for clarifying and in view of what you describe it reinforces what I suggested in my reply #17 in that if you have the computer running put it in stand by for now when not in use.

Getting late here and I have an early start so calling it a day now, can you do the following for us and I will get back to you after work tomorrow.

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.

[COLOR=rgb(226, 80, 65)] [COLOR=rgb(226, 80, 65)]If you need to save the results as a txt file can you please edit out your Windows product key before uploading the information here.[/COLOR][/COLOR]

[TheDiagGuy]

Here ya go.

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/3dr7R1O0lDcaRI5bI8GMG6v

Btw. It didn’t boot again and would not boot after forced shut down. Had to let it sit for 10 seconds.
Side note: really impressed by the speccy program. Didn’t know it was piriform like CCleaner.
I will follow your advice and leave it in stand by mode when not in use.

[phillpower2]

Thanks for the Speccy url (y)

What we are able to see in Speccy shows a system that is in good order, software kept up to date and with plenty of free storage space on both drives, if it were not for the start up issue the computer would have a 100% clean bill of health.

What we cannot see in Speccy are certain voltages that we need, if you do need to restart the computer it would be helpful if when you do that you go into the BIOS upon restart and make a note of the following voltages if available +3.3, +5 +12V and the DRAM voltage, we can check them as best we can a couple of other ways for now, please see below;

I would suggest that you get rid of the rather useless Windows Hibernation setting, it is not only a waste of time but also known to cause issues.

To disable Hibernation:

[ol]
[li]The first step is to run the command prompt as administrator. In Windows 10, you can do this by right clicking on the start menu and clicking “Command Prompt (Admin)”[/li][li]Type in “powercfg.exe /h off” without the quotes and press enter. If you typed it in correctly, the cursor will simply start at a new line asking for new input[/li][li]Now just exit out of command prompt[/li][/ol]
Download Speedfan and install it. Once it’s installed, run the program and post here the information it shows. The information I want you to post is the stuff that is circled in the example picture I have attached.
If you are running on a vista machine, please go to where you installed the program and run the program as administrator.

http://artellos.geekstogo.com/speedfan.png

(this is a screenshot from a vista machine)
So that we have a comparison to Speedfan, download, run and grab a screenshot of HWMonitor (free).

To capture and post a screenshot;

Click on the ALT key + PRT SCR key..its on the top row..right hand side..now click on start…all programs…accessories…paint…left click in the white area …press CTRL + V…click on file…click on save…save it to your desktop…name it something related to the screen your capturing… BE SURE TO SAVE IT AS A .JPG …otherwise it may be to big to upload… after typing in any response you have… click on Upload a File to add the screenshot.

Screenshot instructions are provided to assist those that may read this topic but are not yet aware of the “how to”.

[TheDiagGuy]

Been leaving it in stand-by mode as you recommended. Now that I’m using the rig for more than gaming, I’ve noticed that sometimes it’ll act like an old Windows computer I had as a kid. Sometimes I’ll click a program or a command or something in chrome or some other action with the mouse and it will respond (like the icon shows that its being clicked) but nothing will happen. I might try clicking another icon or trying the same one again, and it will just do the same thing. If I wait a while (about a minute or two) it will suddenly open everything I’ve clicked. I haven’t had a computer do this in a long time. I’m going to try restarting now to give you the voltages you requested out of the BIOS. I also disabled hibernation like you recommended.
Went to restart and I couldn’t remember which button to press to get into the BIOS, and it booted without going to the BIOS. I went to restart (using the restart function in the start menu) again and it didn’t boot back up

[TheDiagGuy]

Couldn’t get it to boot after about 15 tries, so I let it sit for a few minutes. Finally booted. Apologize for having to make a second post, I am still unable to edit. Apparently the site only gives you five minutes to edit.
DRAM = 1.585V
+12.00V = +12.109-12.144V
+5.00V = +5.208V
+3.30 = +3.328-3.344V

Other Random Voltages:
NB Voltage: 1.10V
HT Voltage: 1.215V
CPU Offset Voltage: +0mV
Vcore = +1.376V

CPU Fan 1 Speed: 1511 RPM
Chassis Fan 1 Speed: 1048-1065 RPM
CPU Temp: 36.5 C
M/B Temp: 30.0 C

[phillpower2]

The only voltage that looks off in the BIOS, HWMonitor and Speedfan is that of the RAM and tbh I am not convinced that that would cause problems with the computer not starting up every time, it is possible though if the BIOS has a problem with it when it is checked as part of the power on self test.

Couple of suggestions, with the exception of two, please do them one at a time rather than all at once so that you will be aware of any particular step that may have made a difference, it may take you some time as you will obviously need to use the computer and so cannot risk it not booting up every time.

Try using a wired PS/2 type keyboard instead of the USB one.

If you need to wait to be able to obtain a wired keyboard, make sure that the USB keyboard is connected to a USB 2.0 port and not the 3.0 type.

Restore the MBs default factory settings in the BIOS to clear any possible bad MB settings.

Left until last as it involves opening up the computer.

Swap the SATA cables and ports for the HDD and the SSD.

Place the GPU in the other PCI-E slot.

The above has been suggested as problems with anyone of them could be causing POST to fail.

No problems about the edit, will just have to live with it while we troubleshoot this.

[TheDiagGuy]

Okay. I restored factory MOBO settings. When it went to restart after that, it didn’t boot.
The USB keyboard I’ve been using is a wireless one and the dongle is in the USB 2.0 port on the front of the case. I don’t actually own a wired keyboard. I will have to try this step last.
I then proceeded to take the case apart and moved the SSD to the SATA port labeled “1” and the HDD to “2”. I also used two new SATA cables that were still in the plastic. Reconnected all the cables and booted the PC. Booted on first try. Went to restart just to see if it would, didn’t boot.
I cannot actually put a GPU in the other PCIe slot as the case would not allow it. I will have to breadboard the MOBO to test this.
The BIOS on this MOBO allows for manual adjustment of the DRAM voltage. Just a thought. I wouldn’t know what to put it at, but it can be done.

The rig eventually booted and I have it in stand by mode now.
I will see about getting a PS/2 keyboard today, and if that doesn’t work, I’ll breadboard the MOBO to test the GPU theory.
Should we try adjusting the DRAM voltage?

[phillpower2]

Try another USB 2.0 port on the back of the computer if you can, if even just so that we have tried everything possible.

Swapping the drives and SATA cables/ports around goes some way to ruling out them as being the cause.

Before changing anything manually, run HWM and Speedfan again, no need to upload anything but you can if you wish, what you are looking for, your RAM has a stock voltage of 1.5V and at least two of the VIN readings in both programs should be showing a voltage of around 1.5V, your DRAM voltage of 1.585V in the BIOS is not good as the voltage will only increase once the computer is put under load, the high voltage reading in the BIOS is as you can see also reported in your previous HWM and Speedfan screenshots.

The RAM voltage is not likely to be the cause of this but a voltage regulator (VRM) on the MB could be.

Breadboarding would have been my last suggestion but needs must as something appears to be tripping up the power on self test, I do have one other suggestion for you to try if you have either a spare USB thumb drive or a blank CD that you could burn Linux to.

[TheDiagGuy]

So I moved the dongle to a 2.0 port on the back of the rig. Went to restart. Didn’t boot. It actually powered down on its own after I let it sit in a “no boot power on” state.
Also after many failed attempts to boot, I unplugged the power for a while and plugged it back in then booted and the attached picture is what I got. This is not the normal BIOS splash screen. Had to hit F1 for it to boot.
Speedfan Voltages:
VIN1: 0.49
VIN2: 1.73
VIN3: 1.86
HWMonitor Voltages:
VIN1: 0.192
VIN4: 0.488
VIN5: 1.736
VIN6: 1.856
I’m game to try Linux, but just so you’re aware I have zero experience with it. I do have a bunch of USB sticks I can use. Any preferred size?

I’m starting to look into buying another MOBO… Maybe something with a 990X or 990FX chipset. I do want to see this diagnostic process through to the end though before doing so.

[phillpower2]

That screenshot suggests that you may need to replace the CMOS battery or worse case scenario the BIOS chip is bad.

Have you had to reset the time and date at all recently.

Anything over 1GB will do for a thumb drive, the downside to this is that you will need to change the boot sequence so that a USB device is first in the boot order.

Still the same high voltages in both programs, the RAM could be being auto OCd by the MB.

Get back to us regarding the time and date if you will, you don`t happen to have a spare CR2032 coin cell battery do you.

[TheDiagGuy]

I haven’t noticed any issues with the clock (Which I know would suggest that the CMOS battery is dead). Date and time as of now is accurate.
I have those batteries at work, so I can get one tomorrow.
Why would the MB auto OC the RAM?
I know how to change the boot order, so no problem there. Just let me know what you’d like me to do. Like I said, no experience with Linux here.

[phillpower2]

Date and time as of now is accurate.

Was that in the BIOS or on the Windows taskbar, reason I ask explained below;

What is shown in your picture in reply #29 was once upon a time called a checksum error or in laymans terms the result of having a dead CMOS battery or BIOS chip on a MB that had no such previous issue, problem these days is that most computers are internet ready and so the time and date on the taskbar auto sets on boot.

Software that ships with a MB often has OCing tools, ASUS MBs for example will install AI suite.

It wasn’t about changing the boot order that I was worried about, it was the need to restart the computer to access the BIOS.