In Progress PC Stuttering/Crashing

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Not terrible but even the 1000 and the 1300W version of the same range were only rated as – Tier B • Mid-range

Regarding Speccy, will mention them as they are list there;

RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR4 @ 1064MHz (15-15-15-36)

You need to manually overclock the RAM to the max that the CPU supports which is 3200MT/s as the slow SPD speed is causing a bottleneck and throttling the CPU.

Graphics
Sceptre K25 (1920x1080@240Hz)
Sceptre E20 (1600x900@60Hz)

You should never mix refresh rates, it never works and always causes conflicts when the GPU gets confused.

Operating System
Windows 11 Home 64-bit
Computer type: Desktop
Installation Date: 12/7/2024 10:11:29 PM

Windows is shown to be a recent install and a lazy one at that, called lazy as rather than it be done properly the system has just been allowed to work using Windows own generic drivers, how it should have been done and for as to why is explained in my canned info below;

Once Windows has been clean installed you must then install first the MBs chipset drivers then the storage/SATA drivers and third the graphics drivers, the drivers can either come from a disk provided by the motherboard manufacturer or downloaded from their site and saved to a flash drive etc, this is a must and Windows should not be allowed to check for updates before it has been done as more often than not Windows installs the wrong drivers or in the incorrect order and this can cause all sorts of problems.

The reason why this procedure is so important, the chipset is what enables the MB to be able to communicate with all the hardware + are the first drivers that Windows looks for on boot.

Power Profile
Active power scheme: High performance

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power.

Can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed,, thanks.
 
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Sorry for all the questions that will be asked in this post. Just trying to get to the bottom of this. As I've been dealing with this for 6 months now.

The only reason i disabled xmp was because i thought that was causing the crashing. Now that i know thats not the case i will go back into bios and enable it. I also might put my 32 gb of ram back in.

For the monitors should i get another 240hz to replace the 60hz?

Should i do another fresh install of windows, but this time download all drivers in the order you provided? Or could i just keep the current windows i have and just install the drivers in the order?

I will change the Power Plan to Balanced.
 
I just tried to enable XMP and put the ram to 3200 MT/s but when i tried to boot back up i got the recovery blue screen. So i went back into bios and set it to 3000MT/s and the voltage is at 1.350 V.
 
The only reason i disabled xmp was because i thought that was causing the crashing. Now that i know thats not the case i will go back into bios and enable it. I also might put my 32 gb of ram back in.

You were advised on this in my reply #22 and the above is not what was advised.

You need to manually overclock the RAM to the max that the CPU supports which is 3200MT/s as the slow SPD speed is causing a bottleneck and throttling the CPU.

If you want two monitors the specs must match.

I would always recommend a system be set up correctly so that would be a yes but until you have matching screens you should stick with just having the one hooked up.

I just tried to enable XMP and put the ram to 3200 MT/s but when i tried to boot back up i got the recovery blue screen. So i went back into bios and set it to 3000MT/s and the voltage is at 1.350 V.

Again not what was advised and for the very reasons that transpired.
 
Ok I will disconnect the 60hz monitor and stick with true 240hz until I can get another 240hz monitor.

Sorry this may be frustrating for you but I don’t understand the ram bit. You told me to put the ram to 3200 MT/s so i did. Then I replied saying when I did that I got a blue recover screen, then you said that putting the ram to 3200 MT/s isn’t what you said to do. Unless I’m dumb and “manually overlocking ram” isn’t the same as enabling “XMP”. There’s a huge possibility that I’m dumb and I did the wrong thing.
 
You are not dumb, you are learning just like we all had to.

The reason why you were advised to manually overclock your RAM is explained in my canned information below;

The RAM is not appropriate for your CPU, AMD state here up to 3200MHz/MT/s and if you have EXPO/XMP enabled the RAM will get auto OCd past what the CPU can handle and the PC will become unstable.

Modern RAM has two speeds, SPD (serial presence detect) and XMP or similar such as EXPO, SPD is what the BIOS detects on boot which for DDR4 for example is most often 2133MHz and XMP which when enabled will set the RAM to run at the maximum speed that it is capable of.

The tested speed of your RAM is 3596MT/s which is way too fast for your CPU to handle and when you enable XMP the RAM gets auto OCd to 3596MT/s and the computer becomes unstable.

Something to keep in mind for the future, a CPU must be compatible with a MB whereas the RAM has to be compatible with both the CPU and the MB, this because a MB can be compatible with faster CPUs than the one in your list of parts and MB manufacturers often state RAM speeds that far exceed that which any compatible CPU can handle, this is misleading at the least or dishonest at worst.

For you to do now;

Disconnect the second screen.

Restart the PC so that you can enter the BIOS, restore the MBs default factory settings in the BIOS, they are sometimes listed as one of the following " factory defaults" "most stable" or on newer boards "optimized" please note that if you have both the "most stable" and the "optimized" options in the BIOS you should choose the most stable" option as in this instance the "optimized" settings are a form of overclocking that can cause instability.

Save the new settings, exit the BIOS, restart the computer, test by using the computer as you normally would, post back with an update once you have done this.

When you post back after doing all of the above can you include in your update a new Speccy url.
 
Ok thanks for the more detailed reply. When I wake up I will do all the things you instructed me to do. Then I’ll keep you posted on what goes on.
 
Just a quick question could put tue ram back in that came with the pc? I don’t have a model name for you all I know is that it was 32 gb. If not that’s fine, I’ll stick with the 16 gb if you think that’s the better choice for right now.
 
Sorry but why introduce something that we know nothing about, please just stick to the advised then get back to us.

Once you have a stable machine you could then consider adding the original RAM but this is something that you need to work with us on before doing so.
 
I restore to the default setting in bios. I chose save and exit option and was loading into windows and then a “BitLocker” blue screen popped up. I tried to type in the recovery key like the steps say on screen but when I press enter nothing happens. I’ve had this problem before and the only choice I had last time was to fresh install windows via usb.
 
Don't mean to spam you with so many reply's but i just want to update you. I just had my first crash after restoring to default settings in bios and unplugging my second monitor.
 
Need to brief as I am required elsewhere and for monetary reasons I need to attend.

From your updated Speccy url;

Power Profile
Active power scheme: High performance

From my reply #22;

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power.

And your reply #23;

I will change the Power Plan to Balanced.

The above is a setting from within Windows which means that you never did as was asked or you have since changed it back, either way it is not helpful.

I don't have any dump files to upload. I don't see any in the folder.

What happened exactly and what was the computer being used for at the time.

Please see my canned info below;

Software such as Windows can crash and when it does crash you get a BSOD and when enabled a crash dmp is generated, programs or games when they crash can on occasion close to the desktop but the computer will still be 100% functional.

Hardware failure such as a weak power supply and/or overheating are not software related and when a computer for example suddenly turns off, freezes or the screen goes black etc the behaviour should be described as the "computer shut down unexpectedly" or froze etc and not as having crashed as the latter implies a software issue as opposed to an obvious hardware issue when described properly.

Having the correct info means that helpers will not be looking for a software issue when the problem is clearly hardware related.

Due to unforeseen circumstances beyond my control I am unable to afford the time time to assist on the forums for a day or two, apologies for any inconvenience that this may cause and thank you for your understanding.
 
I will try to explain how the crash works. So it happens randomly, it can happen when I’m playing Fortnite, or when I’m watching YouTube, and the most confusing one it can happen with noting on at all. So when it crashes it starts stuttering kinda like my whole pc is at 1 fps. While it does that I also here a loud robotic audio that cuts in and out.

After this happens sometimes the computer restarts its self and other times it does it for so long that I have to force shutdown.

I seen that you said you would be taking a couple of days to reply so I will wait patiently until you return.
 
I`m back (y)

As per my canned information in reply #36, your computer is not crashing as the behaviour is not being caused by software.

All of what you describe is typical behaviour of something overheating and this includes the PSU internally and the chipset on the MB.

I will change the Power Plan to Balanced.

The above is a setting from within Windows which means that you never did as was asked or you have since changed it back, either way it is not helpful.

You make no mention of the above, what transpired, did you go back and change it back to High Performance or did you just not change it to balanced in the first place.

Tip, never ever use the beta version of anything, especially not the BIOS.

Will wait on you getting back to me regarding what went on with the Windows Power Plan.
 
To be honest about the power plan, I figured since the pc did the crash thing on balanced then I could switch back.

You say it’s overheating using involving the PSU or motherboard, but the company I got the pc from says it’s the SSD, and I called a local technician and gave him a brief rundown on what’s going on and he also said it sounds like the SSD.
 
To be honest about the power plan, I figured since the pc did the crash thing on balanced then I could switch back.

There you go again with the crash thing, if you wish to continue with this I insist on two things, you only do as is asked and desist with using incorrect terminology.

You say it’s overheating using involving the PSU or motherboard, but the company I got the pc from says it’s the SSD, and I called a local technician and gave him a brief rundown on what’s going on and he also said it sounds like the SSD.

Where did I ever say this, what I actually said;

All of what you describe is typical behaviour of something overheating and this includes the PSU internally and the chipset on the MB.

Your PC to do with as you see fit but let us know if you wish to follow someone elses guidance and I will chime out, word of advise though, only listen to someone that can be held to account should yo follow their advice and something goes badly wrong.

No idea why anyone would think that this is SSD related but lets take a look;

When you reply can you tell us if you have changed the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, if you are not prepared to do this I`m out, being blunt High Performance on a desktop is used by idiots that don't know what they are doing nor what the setting actually does which is stuff up the CPU cores and mess with power consumption.

Download MiniToolBox and save the file to the Desktop.

Close the browser and run the tool, check the following options;

List last 10 Event Viewer Errors
List Installed Programs
List Devices (Only Problems)
List Users, Partitions and Memory size

Click on Go.

Post the resulting log in your next reply for us if you will.