I managed to play around 2 hours yesterday by limitating my FPS to 20 and using a way worse display resolution. I'm not sure if it was the fps or the resolution that made this possible, so I'm currently testing out if I can play with 58 fps in a worse resolution. It was working so far so made the stupid decision to increase the resolution and in around 5 minutes I lost signal, so I'm back to just play in a worse resolution with 58 fps.
Monitor losing signal in a few specific games
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The problem came back after some time so I tried using the 2 ram at the same time, still lost signal, but after restarting the signal didn't come back at all. It was already lost in the lock screen and I could hear some windows sounds but that's it. I restarted again, still no signal. Took that ram out and turned the pc on, and there was signal. This has happened this exact same way two or three times already. I guess this proves the ram is the problem? In which case, which one should I replace it with?
Let's get another Speccy report to see what has changed. 
And is there any chance you can get your hands on another PSU at all - friend, family, neighbour, work, spare parts box?
Otherwise, for me, I'd be saving my files, getting all the software and codes/keys ready, and wiping it all and reloading Windows from scratch.
You'll get the rig back to bare bones with no other software to blame.
You then load the necessary graphics drivers etc, then load one game and test as is.
If all good, load some other software and test the game again.
If you lose signal, it's got to be the hardware or the currently installed software.
But of course, we'll always come back to the possibility it's the PSU.
And is there any chance you can get your hands on another PSU at all - friend, family, neighbour, work, spare parts box?
Otherwise, for me, I'd be saving my files, getting all the software and codes/keys ready, and wiping it all and reloading Windows from scratch.
You'll get the rig back to bare bones with no other software to blame.
You then load the necessary graphics drivers etc, then load one game and test as is.
If all good, load some other software and test the game again.
If you lose signal, it's got to be the hardware or the currently installed software.
But of course, we'll always come back to the possibility it's the PSU.
I'd say it's either the RAM or the PSU.
One of the RAM did too many weird things so it's hard to ignore it. Plus I found out I buyed my RAM in a site that isn't very trustworthy.
Since the RAM is cheaper, do you think I should replace mine with either of those two? RAM Kingston Fury Beast, 8GB, 3600MHz, DDR4, CL17, black or
RAM Kingston Fury Beast, 8GB, 3200MHz, DDR4, CL16.
I wanted a 3600MHz, DDR4, CL14, but I couldn't find any in a trustworthy site. It's harder to find high quality products in the country that I live, especially ones that aren't ridiculously expensive.
One of the RAM did too many weird things so it's hard to ignore it. Plus I found out I buyed my RAM in a site that isn't very trustworthy.
Since the RAM is cheaper, do you think I should replace mine with either of those two? RAM Kingston Fury Beast, 8GB, 3600MHz, DDR4, CL17, black or
RAM Kingston Fury Beast, 8GB, 3200MHz, DDR4, CL16.
I wanted a 3600MHz, DDR4, CL14, but I couldn't find any in a trustworthy site. It's harder to find high quality products in the country that I live, especially ones that aren't ridiculously expensive.
I also don't know if my pc can run 3600MHz to begin with. I tried to find the answer in the motherboard manual and website and I didn't find it. Also just to make sure, a RAM that says it's 8gb means each RAM card is 8gb but I can buy more than one and use them at the same time, right? Being 8gb doesn't mean they can only be used alone? I know it's probably a stupid question but it's better to make stupid questions rather than stupid mistakes and buy two 8gb ram that can't be used together.
One more thing, I don't really care about getting the best, most high quality product I could. I just need something that will fix my lost signal problem, so something that can be used for gaming and will last years. That said, can you please tell me if the RAM I selected are good? And this PSU too: Corsair Rm750e, 750W, 80 Plus Gold, Full Modular, Pcie 5.0, Black - Cp-9020262-ww
Somehow I forgot to mention something important. Yesterday I lost signal in a different game that I never lost signal before. And it's a extremely light game, I don't know why it happened.
My CPU air cooler is now making a weird sound. It doesn't look dirty but it's still happening. I went to bios and reset the cooler speed to normal and it's a little better now but still happening. When I restarted, the PC started to turn on and then stopped, once or twice before actually turning on.
I cleaned it and it seems to have stopped making the weird noise for now at least. I'm really tired of losing signal already, if someone could just answer my previous messages so I can go to the next step it would be nice. Some more information, every time I lose signal, the PC fans are on, the RAM rgb is working and the GPU too, all seems to be working but the monitor still doesn't work.
my cpu cooler is not changing speed. its going slow which is causing my cpu to get really hot. i tried increasing the speed in the bios and the speed didnt change at all. it was normal until a few minutes ago, this started after the electricity power in my house went out.
After the electricity power went out and the cooler air fan started to malfunction, if I click on the power button in the pc, it immediately turns off. This never happened before and to turn it off from the button I've always had to hold it, not click. After I turned it off by clicking it, I tried to turn it on again like 10 times and it didn't work, so I took the cable out from the wall and put it again, and it turned on. Is this a signal the PSU wasn't working?
Your motherboard supports 3200 speed natively, to get anything higher requires over-clocking the BIOS, and this normally just requires XMP mode to be turned on.
Info obtained from here;
www.gigabyte.com
You'll see the 3400 has O.C. after it, meaning Over Clock.
For me, I'd get the Kingston Fury 3200MHz units, 2x8GB. Or 2x16GB, whatever your budget allows.
That Corsair RM is excellent, see here; https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
To double check your memory selection is compatible, download Gigabyte's support list from this page; https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B550M-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10-11-12/support#support-doc
As to the CPU cooler, the fan may need replacing, good ones are under $AUD50. Brands like Noctua for example.
Quick fix, spray a bit of WD40, or CRC20, or whatever equivalent oil spray you have over there into the fan bearing.
Sadly, the PSU or RAM may not fix your signal issues, but as said previously, they are the lowest hanging fruit that is worth picking first.
Unless you have access to parts that you can swap in and out, like motherboard, drives, GPU, etc, it's time to either get those new parts we have mentioned or take it to a repair shop, who would have access to spare parts.
And of course, you still have the "nuke Windows from space" option.
as to "if someone could just answer my previous messages so I can go to the next step", sadly that can't happen as we aren't sitting in front of the unit to see what you are doing.
Try the suggestions, or not - entirely up to you.
But no-one here is going to say "do this and your issue will be fixed"
Info obtained from here;
B550M AORUS ELITE (rev. 1.0/1.1/1.2) Specification | Motherboard - GIGABYTE Global
Lasting Quality from GIGABYTE.GIGABYTE Ultra Durable™ motherboards bring together a unique blend of features and technologies that offer users the absolute ...
For me, I'd get the Kingston Fury 3200MHz units, 2x8GB. Or 2x16GB, whatever your budget allows.
That Corsair RM is excellent, see here; https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
To double check your memory selection is compatible, download Gigabyte's support list from this page; https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B550M-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10-11-12/support#support-doc
As to the CPU cooler, the fan may need replacing, good ones are under $AUD50. Brands like Noctua for example.
Quick fix, spray a bit of WD40, or CRC20, or whatever equivalent oil spray you have over there into the fan bearing.
Sadly, the PSU or RAM may not fix your signal issues, but as said previously, they are the lowest hanging fruit that is worth picking first.
Unless you have access to parts that you can swap in and out, like motherboard, drives, GPU, etc, it's time to either get those new parts we have mentioned or take it to a repair shop, who would have access to spare parts.
And of course, you still have the "nuke Windows from space" option.
as to "if someone could just answer my previous messages so I can go to the next step", sadly that can't happen as we aren't sitting in front of the unit to see what you are doing.
Try the suggestions, or not - entirely up to you.
But no-one here is going to say "do this and your issue will be fixed"
Thanks for the elaborate answer. I'll try replacing the ram first, if that doesn't work I'll try resetting windows (I think that's what you mean by nuking it?) and if that doesn't work I'll try replacing the PSU. And by the way, when I asked if someone could just tell me the next step, I meant any answer really. I didn't mean the objectively correct answer, just any answer.
All good
Keep us posted.
And yes, nuking it means resetting it - but not keeping any files or settings.
You could try the "little hammer" reset where it just reloads Windows, but you'll still be up for reloading your software and we won't know fir sure what gets left behind and if that is causing the issue.
Time for a clean slate.
If you want to do that, get Windows Media Creation Tool from Microsoft, use it to create a bootable USB stick and boot the PC from that stick and follow the bouncing ball - basically wiping the drive and installing a clean Windows OS.
Keep us posted.
And yes, nuking it means resetting it - but not keeping any files or settings.
You could try the "little hammer" reset where it just reloads Windows, but you'll still be up for reloading your software and we won't know fir sure what gets left behind and if that is causing the issue.
Time for a clean slate.
If you want to do that, get Windows Media Creation Tool from Microsoft, use it to create a bootable USB stick and boot the PC from that stick and follow the bouncing ball - basically wiping the drive and installing a clean Windows OS.
Alright. I'll do that if replacing the RAM doesn't work, if nuking windows doesn't work either I'll try replacing the PSU and if that also doesn't work I'll probably contact someone to help me.
I got a new ram and installed it, did it all correctly and I still lose signal. So I guess that means ram isn't the problem. I can't lose signal because of insufficient ram can I? Do you think I should get the new PSU?
Lack of memory won't make you lose signal, just give you a slow PC.
Faulty memory can do weird stuff however, so you may have side-stepped that possibility if memory was the issue - but it looks like it wasn't!
Back in post #7, the PSU was identified as not the best for gaming.
And in post #12, it was shown to be Tier C - Low End.
So it's always been at the top of the suspect list.
Faulty memory can do weird stuff however, so you may have side-stepped that possibility if memory was the issue - but it looks like it wasn't!
Back in post #7, the PSU was identified as not the best for gaming.
And in post #12, it was shown to be Tier C - Low End.
So it's always been at the top of the suspect list.
I only got a new ram because it's way cheaper than getting a new PSU. I reinstalled windows and I think the problem isn't fixed, so I guess the next step is to get a new PSU.
Why do I only lose signal most of the time in specific games though? Is a PSU really able to do that? Could another part of the hardware do that? Like the CPU? When I lose signal the air fans and the lights are all working, but the sounds from the game mostly disappear, the display stops working and the keyboard and mouse also stops responding.
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