Solved PC not being able to boot

Hi! First time posting here, so idk if im posting this thread in the right place, so do help me out.

I built a pc for my mate a year ago and everything was fine. Until last week, he told me that his pc cant seem to boot up. He never opened up the pc once, last day he was able to use his pc was when he played Roblox. He shut down his pc as usual and the next day the problem in the title occured.

He sent the pc to my house, i checked the parts one by one except CPU and Mobo(i hv no spare parts to test if any is faulty).

Followed by
(working)

• power button
• PSU cables(using another set from another PSU)
• the PSU using the paperclip method
• RAM(single and reseating),
• GPU
• removing CMOS battery

parts stated above were tested on another functioning desktop. Even took out the SSD leaving the HDD to see if pc will boot.

• left only the CPU, CPU cooler, SSD, 4+4pin CPU and 24-pin cable.
• took out the mobo and tested the above. same thing, EZ Debug flashes red except CPU.

Pressed the power button, PSU makes a click sound, EZ Debug LED(every single LED flashed red except CPU), PSU, CPU fans spin for a sec and nth else moves just dead.

(vid of the LED)

Please help me out, this is my first time running into this problem. I plan to contact the supplier where I bought the parts from, AMD and MSI itself.

Case : Tecware Forge M
CPU : AMD Ryzen 5 3500X
Mobo : MSI B450M Mortar Max
CPU Cooler : Cryorig H7 Single Tower
GPU : ZOTAC GAMING GTX 1660 SUPER TWIN FAN 6GB GDDR6
PSU : Cooler master MWE 550W GOLD 80+ FULL MODULAR
Memory : Klevv Bolt X 8GBx2 3200MHz
HDD : Toshiba 3.5 1TB 7200rpm 64MB HDD - P300 - 1TB
SSD : Lexar NM610 500GB

Hope its not the CPU as the warranty has been voided by using a third party cooler, see AMD PIB WARRANTY LIMITATIONS AND EXCLUSIONS

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Oh yikers, but how can AMD prove that I've used an aftermarket cooler tho? and also i saw this one a website but idk if it's reliable, https://segmentnext.com/third-party-cpu-coolers/

Have you checked that the CPU cooling fan is securely attached to the CPU fan header on the MB, if it is, try connecting it to one of the chassis fan headers to see if the behaviour is the same, if no difference, reconnect back to the CPU fan header and do the below;

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Yup CPU cooling fan cable is securely attached to the CPU fan header. Tried connecting the CPU cooling fan cable to one of the working system case fan header, click the power button and nothing happens. EZ Debug LED does not light up and the PSU does not click.

Disconnect the 8-pin ATX 12V power connector that supplies the CPU, reconnect the PSU power cord, press the power on button to see if the PSU and chassis fan/s activate and stay running.

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Reconnected the CPU cooler fan cable back to the CPU header, followed the steps u provided. Pressed the power on button EZ Debug LED flashes red for a sec except CPU, PSU makes a click, CPU/PSU fans spin for a sec and chassis fans does not make at all. So, is it safe to assume that the PSU is not supplying enough power?

They have top techs who have been doing this for years and know exactly what to look for.

From your link;

Yes, provided that the selected HSF, when properly installed and used, supports operation of the AMD processor in conformance with AMD’s publicly available specifications. Use of HSF solutions determined by AMD as incapable of such performance or which are determined to have contributed to the failure of the processor shall invalidate the warranty.

What the above basically means, AMD techs will decide whether or not the CPU has failed because a person used a cooler other than what may have been shipped with the CPU, best to stick with using the stock cooler that ships with the CPU or purchasing a CPU that does not ship with a cooler.

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Ohhh alright got it, a lot of people recommend to not use the stock cooler because of how bad they are. Temps can reach up to 90-100 degrees? That's why I went to research, found a decently priced and good performance aftermarket cooler. But I was not warned that it will void the warranty, etc.

You should never do this unless the two PSUs are the exact same model, doing so could short something out as not all cable connectors or PSU inputs are keyed the same.

Best thing that you can do now is swap in a known good PSU for testing purposes, any 450W or above Gold efficiency rated PSU from Corsair, EVGA or Seasonic will do.

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Oh man I didn't know that! I totally forgot that these kind of cables are made specifically for that PSU, I'll learn from this mistake. Thank you

Alright, I can't get hold of a PSU right now. I plan to bring down the PC to a local shop to test and ask them for their spare parts FOC. But that will be in 4 days time, I'll reply ASAP once I have tested it. Once again, thank you so much!