Sudden Shutdowns and Immediate Reboots

[phillpower2]

Strange :unsure:

Can you upload an expanded screenshot of Disk Manager for us.

Access Disk Management via Run.

Press the Windows+R keys to open Run, type diskmgmt.msc in the empty box then press OK.

To capture and post a screenshot;

Click on the ALT key + PRT SCR key..its on the top row..right hand side..now click on start…all programs…accessories…paint…left click in the white area …press CTRL + V…click on file…click on save…save it to your desktop…name it something related to the screen your capturing… BE SURE TO SAVE IT AS A .JPG …otherwise it may be to big to upload… after typing in any response you have… click on Upload a File to add the screenshot.

Screenshot instructions are provided to assist those that may read this topic but are not yet aware of the “how to”.

[Francespo]

Here it is, I read online that could be caused from the presence of some restore points since they are unmovable files
[ATTACH type=“full” size=“1499x1188”]14963[/ATTACH]

[phillpower2]

Not sure about the restore point thing but we can see that there appears to be two drives missing and namely the 2TB Seagate Barracuda and the Patriot Burst.

[Francespo]

Sorry I forgot to maximise the screen, they are here indeed

[ATTACH type=“full” alt=“1736276909004.webp”]14964[/ATTACH]

[phillpower2]

Looks to be as I suspected but have to ask, have you previously had Windows installed on the Patriot Burst SSD, that would cause problems.

[Francespo]

You are correct, I used that SATA SSD as the main drive for about a year before moving to the current NVME SSD. How did that affect my system?

[phillpower2]

It still has Windows files on it and including a Recovery Partition either of which could be putting a spanner in the works.

Best suggestion I can make here is to to clean install Windows 11 and the system drivers to the Patriot Burst SSD and be done with it.

[Francespo]

I’d prefer not to install my OS on the Patriot burst since it’s a SATA SSD and its speed is slower than the other one. What if I delete both the partitions on that drive to make sure it won’t interfere with a new Windows install?

[phillpower2]

Understood, you could try formatting the Patriot but I suspect that it will not help with the size limitation when you try and shrink the other partition.

What about trying a 200GB partition on the Platinum SSD.

[Francespo]

Understood, you could try formatting the Patriot but I suspect that it will not help with the size limitation when you try and shrink the other partition.

What about trying a 200GB partition on the Platinum SSD.

I’d rather wipe my C drive saving only some important docs. I am now backing up those docs and data on the Patriot Burst to format them both and install Windows on a partition made on the current C drive. In this regard are there any best practices Windows initial configurations? I saw a lot of videos and articles covering this topic but I’m not able to determine which are legit.

Interestingly since I swapped my power plan from high performance to balanced I’ve never experienced any shutdown and reboot. could this be the root cause of my issue? Or is this power plan only highlighting other hardware/software/OC-settings issues?

In addition to the above, be sure to have the Windows Power Plan set to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power.

Do you have some resources where I can learn more about this?

[phillpower2]

Honest answer is making sure that you install the MBs chipset, storage and video drivers as soon as Windows is installed everything else normally just falls into place, you will just partitioning your C: drive afterwards which is exactly what you should be doing.

Good news, Corsair make some great PSUs but they must be used correctly as in have the required output and efficiency to be able to support the intended hardware, High Performance looks to have been purring too much load on your unit.

Do you have some resources where I can learn more about this?

Not of my own ( Unusually ) it comes from years seeing the setting cause problems, worth a read though is the article here

[Francespo]

Thanks.

Let’s say the performance power plan was causing the undesired behaviour, was it problematic by itself or did it only spark another latent problem?

Still assuming this was the cause of the problem, looking at my errors dump do you still suggest performing a clean Windows installation?

[xrobwx71]

It’s not problematic in itself but what it does is allow the CPU to run at its max clock speed for longer periods. This in turn generates higher temps which in turn can cause the problems.

[phillpower2]

High Performance and the PSU being low on the required wattage are a recipe for disaster, a lesser quality brand PSU would have popped and took out other hardware with it.

Windows is loaded with errors and not installed on its own partition so yes it does need to be clean installed and correctly, along with the MBs system drivers.

At the end of the day it is your computer to do with as you see fit and we for our part have advised you as what needs to be done, should you disregard the advice though when you end up with a non booting or possibly a smoking PC the finger of blame cannot be pointed in our direction.

We have applied a temporary sticking plaster by reducing the load on the PSU etc by getting rid of the problematic High Performance setting, that is all.

[Francespo]

I see the benefits of performing a clear Windows installation so I’ll do that, thak you.

High Performance and the PSU being low on the required wattage are a recipe for disaster, a lesser quality brand PSU would have popped and took out other hardware with it.

We have applied a temporary sticking plaster by reducing the load on the PSU etc by getting rid of the problematic High Performance setting, that is all.

So do you think is a wattage problem? I remember checking on several wattage calculator sites and they were alla around 650W-700W, 850W seemed enough.
Should I consider going for an higher wattage PSU to solve the issue and to avoid future ones or can I blame only the power plan setting for my problems and continue trusting this PSU?