Random Shutdowns

[Allan.T]

Just tried switching PSU’s, the wires physically wont reach to the ports in this case. Also I seem to be missing an 8 pin connector which I believe I need for the motherboard? so I’ve had to ditch that plan, I did notice some Whit melted plastic on the coils of the PSU though, I’m not quite sure if it’s meant to be like that or whether it’s the PSU has melted one of it’s own wires.

[MEDIA=imgur]a/hGJrH[/MEDIA]

[veeg]

Not a good sign…Have you checked the psu fan to see if it is running?

[Allan.T]

So I’m guessing that shouldn’t be on the coils then huh?

I just checked, and the fan is still running, so at least there is that. Whilst I was trying to switch the PSU out, I though’t I’d go and re-seat everything and clear all ports just in case, I know it wouldn’t accomplish much, if anything, but I thought it was worth a shot. No change, I mean since I applied some fresh compound to the CPU I can get into the desktop no problem. I checked HMWMonitor again, and I’m getting similar readings as before, if you’d like the video I can link it in.

I’m guessing I should try a new PSU next? If so that could be a problem in itself. I have £40 stashed away as I’ve only just started saving, I know that the amount I have would only get me a cheap nasty PSU, do I get one just for testing purposes? Or should I wait to buy a higher quality? As stated before I need my PC as it’s my gaming rig/work PC.

What other things could be causing this failure? I felt the water cooler pipes too, one was pretty much stone cold whilst the other was hot to the touch. I dunno, I suppose I’m hopeful that it is the cooler, as I have several fan coolers dotted about which I could just switch. Though I think I know it’s not the cooler, the CPU is getting too hot too quickly, I just dont think the cooler can keep up.

[veeg]

You could take out the psu and open the case to make sure that is melted insulater on the coils. If you do to not touch touch the coils or caps inside it. So if you take out the psu and while you have it out ,you could test the psu with a volt meter,also it will probably need a load on it if you do. You can hook up a spare fan for that.

[Allan.T]

You could take out the psu and open the case to make sure that is melted insulater on the coils. If you do to not touch touch the coils or caps inside it. So if you take out the psu and while you have it out ,you could test the psu with a volt meter,also it will probably need a load on it if you do. You can hook up a spare fan for that.

If I’m honest, I dont feel to comfortable opening up the PSU, I dont mind other parts, but if I make one mistake without knowing it, I could damge the PC or myself. I think it’s still under warranty, do you think I should just return it and ask for a fresh one? I also dont have a volt meter to test it either, I’m sure I can borrow one of somewhere however, so I might look into doing that first.

For the time being, I’vpe built a back-up computer… Though like a lost pup, I keep looking over to my main computer with slight depression over the fact that I can’t use it lol. Hopefully it will be back up and running soon.

[Rustys]

See if this helps

I did notice some Whit melted plastic on the coils of the PSU though, I’m not quite sure if it’s meant to be like that or whether it’s the PSU has melted one of it’s own wires.

https://hardforum.com/threads/white-stuff-in-brand-new-corsair-psu-urgent.1598243/

It’s some sort of glue to stop the coils from high frequency vibration aka coil noise.

[Allan.T]

See if this helps

https://hardforum.com/threads/white-stuff-in-brand-new-corsair-psu-urgent.1598243/

It’s some sort of glue to stop the coils from high frequency vibration aka coil noise.

Yeah it seems to be in order then, the other PSU’s I’ve had arent generally as “open to view” as this one, and with a white wire stopping where the white glue begins, it looks like its melted lol, my apologies.

Though the PSU has low voltage, why would that suddenly just happen

[veeg]

Just to clarify,the melted end of the wire is the psu in question correct?

[DOUGIE]

I have had PSU’s dead out of the box, last 6mths up to 6 years.
No guarantee how long a Psu will last.
You don’t need to install to test another PSU.
Just leave loose and plug in the connections, it is only a test.

I have 3 Maelstrom 120 K’s running on $ 3,000 gaming machines.
Getting 27 29 and 30 on idle.
My guess it is not installed onto the CPU correctly with the correct brackets facing the correct way.

[Allan.T]

Just to clarify,the melted end of the wire is the psu in question correct?

Yes, the PSU with the white glue is the PSU in the computer at the moment. I have had a little look online, and it’s true that this white “glue” is actually meant to be there. Though I still have a feeling the PSU could be at fault here.As you stated, the volt readings are a little low, and when compared to my previous readings after the PC was built, they do differ. The link below is the readings I had previously.

https://pchelpforum.net/t/im-not-liking-those-heat-readings.18718/#post-32627

I have had PSU’s dead out of the box, last 6mths up to 6 years.
No guarantee how long a Psu will last.
You don’t need to install to test another PSU.
Just leave loose and plug in the connections, it is only a test.

I’ll try this, in fact I’ll do so once I’ve completed my morning “ritual” of waking up. It’s an early day for me, it’s currently 4.14am, I’ve woke up because the thought of losing money not having a PC is killing me. So I’ve decided to have yet another look and try yet more things, I’m going to be switching out many parts today to try and solve this problem.

I have 3 Maelstrom 120 K’s running on $ 3,000 gaming machines.
Getting 27 29 and 30 on idle.
My guess it is not installed onto the CPU correctly with the correct brackets facing the correct way.

All is correctly installed. When installing anything on a computer, whether I’ve done it before or not, I’ll always follow the instructions to the latter, and watch some videos on YouTube as well. Except one time I put a PSU in my computer upside down, I always do things correctly.

The Cooler is on evenly, I tighten up the screws half a notch at a time, so that the cooler connects with the CPU evenly. The bracket is the AM3+ bracket, which is the only one which will fit onto my board, as well as the brackets housing the cooler. I honestly don’t think the installation of the part is at fault here, especially seems as I reapplied thermal compound and re-seated the cooler yielding no results.

Also because it’s the CPU heating up so intensely, I’ll be switching that out after I’ve tried the PSU, I’ll re-post when I’ve tested the PSU and CPU.

[jmarket]

I’ll be switching that out after I’ve tried the PSU, I’ll re-post when I’ve tested the PSU and CPU.

You have received some pretty solid advice and it’s great you are going to try another PSU. and yes the white “Goop” you saw is a very common silicon type glue used extensively in the electronics industry. The purpose of it is to mechanically support components so during transport or movement the components are not able to move solely on their electrical contacts.

Please let us know when you have tried another PSU. BTW you say in post three you have the CPU and radiator fans hooked up opposite to what they should be. This should be rectified also. Do not be concerned about 3 and 4 pins as they should only fit the connector in one manner.

[Allan.T]

You have received some pretty solid advice and it’s great you are going to try another PSU. and yes the white “Goop” you saw is a very common silicon type glue used extensively in the electronics industry. The purpose of it is to mechanically support components so during transport or movement the components are not able to move solely on their electrical contacts.

That’s why I come here, the advice is always bang on, everyone knows what they’re on about, I’ll always come here first for any PC needs, far better then any PC shop (as long as your willing to put in a little effort that is). Aye I Read up on the “gloop” and I’ll admit I felt pretty silly for not knowing, but in my books I’ve learnt something new regarding this.

Please let us know when you have tried another PSU. BTW you say in post three you have the CPU and radiator fans hooked up opposite to what they should be. This should be rectified also. Do not be concerned about 3 and 4 pins as they should only fit the connector in one manner.

I tried the other PSU, and it did exactly the same thing. It overheated whilst in desktop, this time I wasn’t even able to get HWMonitor up to check any temperatures. Though that post was a few months ago, and even now the instructions show the fan being installed the other way around. I’m not sure why.

Yeah, I rectified the fan as soon as I posted that pretty much, it worked and helped decrease my temperatures.

Though, whilst I was performing surgery, I switch my cooler round just to try and eliminate any more suspects. I’ve put in an old CPU cooler I got with my FX-4100, it’s old but it was for testing purposes only. I hit the nail on the head. The temperatures have dropped, in fact I’m writing this post on my computer now, and I’m getting cold with the cold air it’s pumping out in my direction.

I’m guessing that the pump in the liquid cooler had packed in, it’s brand new so I’m not sure why it would just suddenly “break”, I might have just got a bad product, as Dougie highly recommends this product, and so do I, when it was working it did a perfect job. I’m attaching some screenshots. It’s been running for about 10-30 minutes, by now it normally has shut down, but my temps are steady and holding.

The only question I have now is WHY it stopped, and will Deepcool send me a fresh item? I mean I do believe failures like this will be covered by warranty right?

[jmarket]

The only question I have now is WHY it stopped, and will Deepcool send me a fresh item? I mean I do believe failures like this will be covered by warranty right?

Hello Allan.T
Perhaps you could have run the system for a time with just the fans connected correctly before changing the cooler? To change more than one thing at a time makes it difficult to determine the issue.

Your question above is pretty well impossible to answer accurately from the information in this thread, possible causes are..
[ul]
[li]Indeed the cooler could be faulty.[/li][li]The backward connection of CPU and case fan connections.[/li][li]Faulty cooler installation, including thermal paste.[/li][li]Faulty motherboard.[/li][li]Faulty PSU.[/li][/ul]
Indeed if the cooler is faulty Deepcool should replace it for you. They will know what caused this if they indeed were to check the cooler, it may be easier and quicker for them to replace it?

BTW I now have two of these coolers and they are great efficient, absolutely silent coolers.

[Allan.T]

Hello Allan.T
Perhaps you could have run the system for a time with just the fans connected correctly before changing the cooler? To change more than one thing at a time makes it difficult to determine the issue.

Ah, you mean how the liquid cooler was installed when I ran into the issues? or do you mean the other fans on my computer? I was actually told on this forum that I should switch the liquid coolers fan around to change the direction of the air flow. I originally had it with the emblem showing itself, but I was told to swap it around as that was the best way for the cooler to operate. See the thread I linked for more details. I did package the cooler back up again, I honestly do believe the pump has gone given the swift rate at which the computer overheated.

I didn’t change everything all at once, I only do one item at a time. I first tried a different PSU, when that didn’t work, I connected the original PSU back up and then change the CPU cooler. Which instantly provided a result.

Your question above is pretty well impossible to answer accurately from the information in this thread, possible causes are..
[ul]
[li]Indeed the cooler could be faulty.[/li][li]The backward connection of CPU and case fan connections.[/li][li]Faulty cooler installation, including thermal paste.[/li][li]Faulty motherboard.[/li][li]Faulty PSU.[/li][/ul]

Well I have this weird little do-dad for applying paste. It’s like a template, I place it over the CPU, apply the paste, and even it out with a tool they supplied. Though I’ll admit, when I re-seated the liquid cooler, I didn’t use it, I used the 5 point rule instead. I used the same method when applying this cooler that is currently installed now.

I mean, if I made a mistake, I’ll hold my hands up. But I installed the cooler exactly how it told me too, I even moved around some fans so I could do so (and with this case, thats alot harder then it sounds). I could be at fault, I might be at fault, but I’ve only followed the instructions unless I was told otherwise by people on this very forum.

The backward connection of CPU and case fan connections.

? Did I install it wrong ?

Indeed if the cooler is faulty Deepcool should replace it for you. They will know what caused this if they indeed were to check the cooler, it may be easier and quicker for them to replace it?

Tbh, I’m hoping they replace it, I loved this cooler, and having that fan in there is quite noisy compared to what I’m used to, it also does a much better job. I do miss it, I feel like my computer has just lost a leg.

BTW I now have two of these coolers and they are great efficient, absolutely silent coolers.

I miss it already, I was shocked at how well it performed especially for the price. I honestly cannot fault how the product performed, it was excellent.

[DOUGIE]

Of course Deepcool will replace the cooler, as it is still under Warranty.
Every product has failures, and you were just unlucky.:cry:
As far as the PSU don’t buy cheapies, as they normally don’t last long.
Adding to that the cheapie PSU’s normally have shorter wiring, and often you need to buy cable extensions to reach.
An 80+ Certified I recommend. You are guaranteed wattage delivery.
You are down in your 12v Rail readings so a new PSU is needed.
PSU is one of the most important pieces of Hardware in your computer.