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Solved I'm not liking those heat readings..

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Allan.T

PCHF Member
Jun 17, 2017
132
19
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U.K, North West.
I'm not exactly sure on what to do, these readings are way higher then my old rig which only had 1 fan!

I have 4 120 mm fans, one being attached to my water cooler. this one is set to blow out, though I'm thinking with the heats being so igh, I should switch it to an inlet, would this help?

The other 3 fans, I have control and the spin direction, so I can have them as inlets or outlets. (one is placed on the other way round so when i switch direction, I'll have 2x inlets 1x outlet and vice versa) I've played around and I hoenstly can't find much of a difference between the two settings.

The tower is currently under my desk, I'm going to try and bringing it up to see if it can get cleaner cooler air in circulation, I'll do that as soon as I've posted this, because the temps are really high for my liking, maybe they could be causing the crashes and BSOD's?
 

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Hello Allan

The max temp for the vid card is 98 c. The mobo temps are around average..

@Evan Omo

I know they're within peramiters, but to say they normally sit at 30 (give or take 5-10), seeing a 50 jump is truely scary. Not only that, I actaully went to check my temps when my toe touched the PC. It was hot enough for me to recoil, but there was no burn. I feel like I've made an error in the build somewhere, my last tower was more cromped and barely had any breathing, yet like I said, I never got readings like that.

Thanks for the info though :) I didn't know the GPU was 98, I thought it was 85 for some reason lol
 
Please take expanded screenshots and only use the method below to attach them.

Download Speedfan from here and install it. Once it's installed, run the program and post here the information it shows. The information I want you to post is the stuff that is circled in the example picture I have attached.


If you are running on a vista machine, please go to where you installed the program and run the program as administrator.



speedfan.png



(this is a screenshot from a vista machine)

Download then run HWMonitor and post a screenshot so that we have a comparison to the Speedfan results, details from here

To capture and post a screenshot;

Click on the ALT key + PRT SCR key..its on the top row..right hand side..now click on start...all programs...accessories...paint....left click in the white area ...press CTRL + V...click on file...click on save...save it to your desktop...name it something related to the screen your capturing... BE SURE TO SAVE IT AS A .JPG ...otherwise it may be to big to upload... Click on the Upload a File tab then after typing in any response you have... click on Post Reply like you normally would.


Screenshot instructions are provided to assist those that may read this topic but are not yet aware of the “how to”.
 
Hey,

Done as you asked, though I'm not exactly sure what you wanted capturing on the HWMonitor (first time using it, I normal use speccy). I think I've included temperatures and Fan speeds. I'm hoping thats what you need.

The Speed fan is only picking up 2 of the 4 fans. I'm wondering if it's because the three fans with the case are all plugged into one unit, which is also used to control the LED's on the computer.
 

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Can you do HWMonitor again but this time click on the + for the voltages.

Speedfan is reporting low voltage on the +3.3V rail and high voltage for the DRAM.

The most effective case cooling is the pull/push method, draw cool, clean air in at the front and expel it at the back, any side, top and bottom cooling is an added bonus and this assumes that there is no restriction of airflow anywhere around the computer and you are are not sited next to a radiator etc.

Edit to add, you normally only get fan readings for those that are connected directly to the 4 pin header type on the MB.
 
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I've got the print screen as you asked.

What would you recommend about the voltages? should I change them? I've never really messed with the voltages on anything before, mainly out of fear.

I do have a push pull format, two in takes from front, the water cooler fan as an outlet and a 120mm fan on the top as an outlet. I have a feeling that the GPU fans are pushing the air and causing problems to the flow. I also feel that maybe my PSU is pushing in hot air which is then being cycled through the system which is no good either.

My PC is on top of my desk, it's got ample space for clean air to get intook, and ambple room at the back for it to be expelled, at least a meter on either side, I am next to a radiator but it hasn't been on in months.

Edit - Ah, these aren't connected to the main board, all three are plugged into a control unit which is connected to a molex adapter. (I think they're called molex, the 4 pin?)
 

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Not getting any readings for the +3.3V, +5V or +12V rails on the PSU, can you check them in the BIOS for us, see below;

Please restart your computer and check the temperatures/voltages in the BIOS, no screenshot is required just make a note of the temperatures and the +3.3V, +5V and the +12V and post them with your next reply.

NB: BIOS voltage readings.
The readings are not conclusive in the BIOS as the computer is under the least amount of load, if they are higher or lower than what they should be though it does suggest a PSU problem.

Need some hardware info as well;

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.
 
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Those voltages are fine.

Everything looks ok in Speccy with the exception of the VIN voltages and the failed updates.

Voltage
CPU CORE: 1.296 V
MEMORY CONTROLLER: 1.500 V
VIN2: 2.028 V
VIN3: 2.016 V
VIN4: 1.992 V
VIN5: 1.104 V
VIN6: 2.232 V
VIN7: 1.656 V

When in the BIOS did you happen to see what was being reported for the DRAM, sorry, should have asked you to do this before :(

Not Installed
21/07/2017 Advanced Micro Devices, Inc driver update for AMD SMBus
Installation Status: Failed
This driver was provided by Advanced Micro Devices, Inc for support
of AMD SMBus

One of the failed updates is an important one for your MB, may not be the cause of the present issues but still needs correcting, download from here and save the chipset drivers for your MB to your desktop, create a new restore point, go into the Device Manager and uninstall the present chipset drivers, restart in Safe Mode only (no networking) install the newly saved chipset drivers, restart the computer and test.
 
Allen, after looking at your "air flow" pic., I think the water cooler is upside down, the airflow show be coming IN across the radiator, and the PSU fan should be exhausting down, which means the PSU is upside down. Correct those two issues and your temps will gg down.
Just to be clear, the radiator is positioned correctly(I think) but the fan is blowing in the wrong direction.
 
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  • Like
Reactions: DOUGIE
Those voltages are fine.

Everything looks ok in Speccy with the exception of the VIN voltages and the failed updates.

Voltage
CPU CORE: 1.296 V
MEMORY CONTROLLER: 1.500 V
VIN2: 2.028 V
VIN3: 2.016 V
VIN4: 1.992 V
VIN5: 1.104 V
VIN6: 2.232 V
VIN7: 1.656 V

When in the BIOS did you happen to see what was being reported for the DRAM, sorry, should have asked you to do this before :(

Not Installed
21/07/2017 Advanced Micro Devices, Inc driver update for AMD SMBus
Installation Status: Failed
This driver was provided by Advanced Micro Devices, Inc for support
of AMD SMBus

One of the failed updates is an important one for your MB, may not be the cause of the present issues but still needs correcting, download from here and save the chipset drivers for your MB to your desktop, create a new restore point, go into the Device Manager and uninstall the present chipset drivers, restart in Safe Mode only (no networking) install the newly saved chipset drivers, restart the computer and test.

I've installed the driver for the SMBus, and the only thing I could find regarding DRAM was 1.500v, I hope thats what you was after :)


Allen, after looking at your "air flow" pic., I think the water cooler is upside down, the airflow show be coming IN across the radiator, and the PSU fan should be exhausting down, which means the PSU is upside down. Correct those two issues and your temps will gg down.
Just to be clear, the radiator is positioned correctly(I think) but the fan is blowing in the wrong direction.

I installed the water cooler exactly how the instructions told me, with it being my first time putting one in, I didn't exactly want to "wing it" but I have read many people like to have their fans pulling clean cool air in, rather then pushing out. So I'll spin that around. I thought The PSU was the wrong way round, I kept looking at it thinking "that aint right" but ended up just leaving it so... I know laziness is not welcome here lol. I'll spin them round now and hopefully we'll see some improvements.
 
I'm looking forward to new temp. readings after the changes.

I'm on it now, PSU has been switched round same as the fan, I've also switched the direction of the other fans, so it pulls in cool air form the back and expels out of the front. I'm hoping that the fan speed doesn't change though. I wont be posting temps until it's been on for a little bit, just to let it get "settled" but so far, it doesn't seem to bad, apart from my fingers are starting to get warm from the PSU's new exit port haha
 
Allen, " I've also switched the direction of the other fans, so it pulls in cool air form the back and expels out of the front." You might save yourself some effort if you asked before making that kind of change. The direction you have now -back to front - is the reverse of what most folks do. And by the way in the "airflow" picture you should have a fan in the grill on the upper left (back side) as an exhaust, not intake.
 
Allen, " I've also switched the direction of the other fans, so it pulls in cool air form the back and expels out of the front." You might save yourself some effort if you asked before making that kind of change. The direction you have now -back to front - is the reverse of what most folks do. And by the way in the "airflow" picture you should have a fan in the grill on the upper left (back side) as an exhaust, not intake.

That kind of change wasn't difficult, I have a switch on the front which changes the direction my fans spin, so they can either push or pull. the way it's set is the fan at the back (the chimney) is always the opposite as the two at the front. I don't have to mess around with screwdrivers or anything like that. Which I'm glad because to spin the top one around, I'd have to take my entire mainboard out because it's restricting access to the screws.

Also like this, I have a feeling my GPU wont be blocking the intake of cool air.

edit - so in theory, I've attached the image of what I think the air flow would be like...
 

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I've installed the driver for the SMBus, and the only thing I could find regarding DRAM was 1.500v, I hope thats what you was after :)
1.5V is good.
edit - so in theory, I've attached the image of what I think the air flow would be like...
As per my reply #7;
The most effective case cooling is the pull/push method, draw cool, clean air in at the front and expel it at the back, any side, top and bottom cooling is an added bonus and this assumes that there is no restriction of airflow anywhere around the computer and you are are not sited next to a radiator etc.
 
1.5V is good.

As per my reply #7;

aye, it was push/pull before, but, there was alot of problems in the middle restricting proper flow. Though you mentioned my VIN voltages were a little high, should I be looking into changing them to standard?

I just used some compressed air and cleaned the GPU, seems as it's 2nd hand it's a bit dust, I held the fans sprayed all the dust off, see if that would help too. after some time, and a bit of stress testing, I got some new reads for you guys, I feel like such an idiot, but all my rig needed was to be moved up and out of the way, and the fans sorting out.

I've had a drop of 19' Which is pretty darn good, though to be honest, if an incompetent fool like me didn't build it, I don't think it ever would have saw them temperatures.
 

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