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Do you have an update for us?
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@MrAstronautBob - you logged in Monday but didn’t update - still need help?Comment
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Reopened per Original Poster Request for follow up.Comment
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@Pyro, @Bruce, and @Rustys
First, I want to thank you guys for the time you have already spent trying to resolve this problem. My inactivity was caused by waiting for new parts to be delivered and work.
From the things you all suggested, I tried:
-Ran rig on one disk
-Checked all the RAM sticks one by one, even my old ones (2x4 GB).
-Set the power plan to balanced
-Checked the operating system for corruption
-Unplugged unnecessary devices, aside from the display, mouse, and keyboard
Last week I changed a few parts, so my current setup looks like this:
Motherboard: ASUS z97-K (previously Gigabyte h81m-s2h)
CPU: i5-4690K (OC to 4.5GHz with 1.270v) (previously i5-4460 3.2GHz)
Cooler: SilentiumPC Fortis 5 (previously box Intel)
GPU: same Zotac 1660S 6 GB DDR6
RAM: same Crucial Ballistix 1600 2x8GB DDR3
I formatted both disks and installed fresh Win10 (now the system disk has 65 GB of free space). After all these changes, I’m still encountering the same problem with GPU. It runs okay only in “prefer maximum performance” mode, with 50-52c idle and 65-73c while gaming. When I’m trying to set “adaptive/optimal” mode (only 36-38c while idle), any 3D application causes the display to shut off and headphones to start buzzing. I can only fix it by restarting the whole PC. At this point, I don’t know what could be the cause.
Also, today I ordered a new extension cord because my old one is like 15+ years old. It’s probably not that, but it won’t hurt to check.Comment
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New speccy Report and MiniToolBox
If nothing was OC’d does that make any difference on how the system runs?
Still suggest getting a larger drive.Originally posted by MrAstronautBob
Did you install the drivers in the proper order starting with chipset and motherboard drivers first?
@Pyro @Bruce @xrobwx71 anything to add.Comment
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sounds like a plan.
definitely turn off OC until you have a stable system.
let’s get a new Speccy.
when Win10 was reloaded, was the internet disconnected and only the one drive attached?
of those swapped parts, which are new and which are used?Comment
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@Rustys @Bruce
If nothing was OC’d does that make any difference on how the system runs?
definitely turn off OC until you have a stable system.
I just reset BIOS to default settings, and everything looks the same like after OC’d (3.5GHz → 4.5GHz (1.270v +0.140 offset)
Still suggest getting a larger drive.
I will try to get a new one in few weeks.
Did you install the drivers in the proper order starting with chipset and motherboard drivers first?
After your post, I updated all the drivers, except system firmware (Microsoft 06.2006 ver. 10.0.19041.1) newer one (ASUSTeK 09.2016 ver. 10.0.10586.1).
when Win10 was reloaded, was the internet disconnected and only the one drive attached?
Yes, the internet was disconnected, and I plugged in and formatted the second disk after Windows was installed on the first one.
of those swapped parts, which are new and which are used?
Both are used. CPU is from an office pc, worked only in exel etc., never was OC’d, and the motherboard is simply used. Both were checked in PC service.
Speccy:
Also, I just noticed my restart option from the start menu doesn’t work correctly. When I tried to install newer drivers for the system firmware, I couldn’t restart my computer. After reboot, when BIOS is loaded and Windows loading screen appears, PC shuts down the display and reboots again. After the second reboot display, mouse and keyboard are disabled. I need to turn off the extension cord, wait until the green light on the motherboard is off, then I can turn on the computer normally. Restarting the PC with the reset button on the case seems to work without any issues.Comment
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Which slots are filled with RAM?
When you did the fresh install of Windows where did and how was the install media created.Comment
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RAM is currently located in 1–3 slots.Originally posted by Rustys
I made a USB flash drive via official Microsoft program.
Before I went to sleep, I disconnected the whole extension cord from electricity. When I turned on PC in the morning, I was able to restart the system once again from the start menu option.Comment
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According to the manual the RAM is correct.
Have you checked the manual to make sure that the jumpers are set for your system and not still for theirs?
Why is there an extension cord?Originally posted by MrAstronautBob
why not go directly to the mains or surge protector.
Since the restart how is the system running?
Let’s see what [COLOR=rgb(243, 121, 52)]Crystal Disk Info show us for that drive as well.
Download the ZIP version and uncompress that way there is nothing to install.
Post a screen shot showing that drive.
Show one for each of the drive attached to the system.[/COLOR]Comment
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Have you checked the manual to make sure that the jumpers are set for your system and not still for theirs?
I don’t know exactly what you mean by “jumpers are set for your system and not still for theirs”
Why is there an extension cord?
why not go directly to the mains or surge protector.
Surge protector will come later on today, I’m just waiting for delivery.
For now, system looks normal, expect for the same GPU error. I tried to undervolt GPU (from 1.043v to 0.925v) but without any result.
CrystalDiskInfo:Comment
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This should explain jumpers better than I can
https://www.computerhope.com/jargon/j/jumper.htm
You will need to refer to the motherboard’s manual for default settings.
Form what I can see the only issue is that there is a combativity issue with the hardware.
Let’s see what the other have to say.
Did you ever run the clean boot and what were the results?Comment
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Looking at your original issue:
You can try NvidiaProfileInspector. Once unzipped, right click it and run as administrator. Scroll down to the power section and make changes. Click in the top right Apply changes. Test.
I also insist on getting a larger drive.Comment
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Could the issue be caused by a bad CMOS battery?
Might need to replace the battery for the CMOS battery. the following link should explain and cover it better than I can.
https://www.electronicshub.org/symptom-of-a-cmos-battery-failure/#:~:text=The%20CMOS%20battery%20is%20also,and%20in correct%20date%20and%20time.Comment
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One more thing.
Open an elevated command prompt.
Click the Start button, type cmd, then CTRL+SHIFT+ENTER
An elevated command window should open.
In this prompt type wmic os get installdate and hit Enter.
Copy/Paste the output in your next post, please.Comment
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