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Solved My PC Keeps freezing/crashing while gaming

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crashfreeze

PCHF Member
Dec 5, 2020
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Computer Type: PC Custom Build

GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon Radeon™ RX 590 8GB

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x

Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk Max

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 32GB (2 x 16GB)

PSU: seasonic m12ii evo 520 w

Case: Corsair Carbide Series 275R Tempered Glass Mid-Tower ATX

Operating System & Version: Windows 10 Home

GPU Drivers: 20.10.44

Chipset Drivers: 2.9.28.509

Background Applications: Applications open when problem occurs: Game, Discord, Spotify, Steam, HWMonitor

Description of Original Problem: The problem: My PC keeps 'freezing' anywhere between 20min-2hours of gaming, has happened across multiple games (Warzone, GTA V, RDR2, DayZ) despite my specs being more than enough to handle those games.

Specifically: I would be playing then without any indication (no lag, stuttering etc) the screen will freeze (Ambient noise in game can be heard, but I cant input anything), then 20 seconds later the screen will go black, then the game will close, where I can then use the PC again. The AMD Bug Report Tool then pops up saying it has detected a driver timeout (See image)

r/AMDHelp - My PC Keeps freezing/crashing while gaming
Pretty sure all my drivers are up to date, and temperatures seem to be fine? (see images of HWMonitor at exact time of 'freezes')



r/AMDHelp - My PC Keeps freezing/crashing while gaming


r/AMDHelp - My PC Keeps freezing/crashing while gaming
Problem has persisted for quite a while now, and I can reliably replicate this 'freeze' as it happens every time I play any demanding game.

Please let me know what I can try to fix this problem. Thanks!
 
Update: I had a go at undervolting but it seems it just makes the 'freeze' happen sooner, but now simply opening photoshop or Radeon Software will cause the freeze, which is followed by a black screen and then I'm returned to desktop.

Took a look in Event Viewer, maybe this helps?:
1607202343575.png


Im thinking its a PSU problem? Any help appreciated, thanks
 
How old is this, great PSU when first released seven years ago but would not use it with anything more than the most basic of modern add on GPUs, for your GPU you need a minimum of something like this
Thanks for the reply, so is the PSU most likely the problem here? I just ordered a Corsair TX750m Semi Modular 750W as I plan on upgrading in the near future, I hope this fixes it, will update once I've installed and tested
 
That is real weird as that model was discontinued a good while ago, btw, it could only produce 480W so not sure where such an odd number as 520W came from, PSU info here
 
First available on Amazon in 2010 and while it could produce 576W it is still end of life so if new three questions, where has it been all this time, is it covered by any Seasonic warranty and last but not least, could it be counterfeit, if you have the sales invoice you should be able to confirm points two and three quite easily.
 
That is the 2014 version that had/has a five year warranty so being honest it should be ok, unfortunately though the only way to rule it out is to try an alternative Gold efficiency rated PSU, any local tech stores that you could ask if they could test the system with the appropriate PSU, some will do it for free hoping to make a sale but others will charge a small fee so best to ask first.
 
After laying out the cash already I really hope that it does resolve the issue.

Something for you to do for us;

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
 
You have a few issues going on so we will only address the most important for now, noticed it in one of your screenshots and Speccy confirms it, you are critically low on free storage space on the boot SSD and WDC data drive.

Partition 2
Partition ID: Disk #0, Partition #2
Disk Letter: C:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 98557923
Size: 222 GB
Used Space: 211 GB (95%)
Free Space: 11 GB (5%)

Partition 0
Partition ID: Disk #1, Partition #0
Disk Letter: D:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 5C81139E
Size: 931 GB
Used Space: 917 GB (98%)
Free Space: 13.6 GB (2%)

For Windows to be able to run efficiently and to be able to update, on a mechanical HDD you need to have between 20 and 25% of the partition or drive available as free storage space at all times and on an SSD between 10 and 20%, if you don`t you risk Windows becoming corrupt or not being able to update which also puts you at risk of malware attack.

Data only storage devices should not be allowed to get any lower than 10% of free storage space of the full capacity of the drive/partition on the drive, this also to avoid data corruption.

Please note that storage devices can physically fail if the amount of free storage space is allowed to drop below the required 10 or 20/25% minimum.

Uninstall as many unused programs, games, videos and music files as you can and get yourself another means of backing up to, post back when you have between 10 and 20% free storage on the C: drive/partition and we can go from there.
 
You now need to get Windows fully up to date, we are currently up to version 20H2 while you are still two versions back at 1909 so have those missing updates + the entire version 2004, lot of missing updates there so it may be worth seeing if you can do an in place upgrade, see info here Windows 10 October 2020 Update
 
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