SSD Read and Write speeds slow down

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

So I’ve had this problem for a while now where my computer suddely stops responding or do anything. It’s not a full on freeze as I can still move my mouse around, but nothing responds when I click on it. Already playing youtube videos will still work(until it needs to download more).
I’ve been able to narrow it down to likely being my new SSD. I can see that the write speed gets super low, like 5-10mb/s and the read speed rarely ever go over 0kb/s, and the response time goes between 2k-50k ms(yes that high). The benchmark is all over the place as well cause it sometimes goes back to normal speed which skews the result.
I tried searching up this issue before and managed to get it to work for a while by removing the sleep state thing that should only be on HDDs(from what I could read at least) but the problem came back. Sometimes it even repeatedly does it for an hour instead of occasionally.

Does anyone have any idea what I can do to fix it?

[veeg]

Hello
Let me get you some help.

@xrobwx71

[veeg]

Hello
Let me get you some help.

@xrobwx71

[xrobwx71]

More info about your PC will help us diagnose.

Download Speccy.

https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

How to post a Speccy shot
To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:
In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.
In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.
Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot dialog box. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
Also, include your PSU (Power Supply Unit) specifications.

[xrobwx71]

More info about your PC will help us diagnose.

Download Speccy.

https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

How to post a Speccy shot
To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:
In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.
In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.
Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot dialog box. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
Also, include your PSU (Power Supply Unit) specifications.

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

More info about your PC will help us diagnose.

Download Speccy.

https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

How to post a Speccy shot
To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:
In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.
In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.
Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot dialog box. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
Also, include your PSU (Power Supply Unit) specifications.

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/sbKEJdo7BF0rGomXpVfa1Cq

My PSU is a HYDRO PRO 500 The company that made my PC wrote it is an SG variant(HYDRO PRO 500-SG) But I think that’s just the initials of the company. Correct me if I am wrong.

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

More info about your PC will help us diagnose.

Download Speccy.

https://www.ccleaner.com/speccy/download

How to post a Speccy shot
To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:
In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.
In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.
Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot dialog box. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
Also, include your PSU (Power Supply Unit) specifications.

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/sbKEJdo7BF0rGomXpVfa1Cq

My PSU is a HYDRO PRO 500 The company that made my PC wrote it is an SG variant(HYDRO PRO 500-SG) But I think that’s just the initials of the company. Correct me if I am wrong.

[phillpower2]

My PSU is a HYDRO PRO 500 T

Rated – Tier C • Low-end so shouldn’t be used anywhere an add on video card and especially when there is more than the one screen hooked up and various other additional hardware present.

Your build needs a minimum of a 550W or above Gold efficiency rated PSU from one of the following, Corsair RM range, EVGA, Seasonic or Super Flower, seven year warranty minimum but preferably ten.
Power Profile
Active power scheme:[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)] High performance

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues and a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.

In addition to the above, this PC has never been set up correctly since day one and rather than the required drivers being installed in the correct order the system has been running on drivers downloaded and installed by Windows 11 and that is a recipe for disaster.[/COLOR]

[phillpower2]

My PSU is a HYDRO PRO 500 T

Rated – Tier C • Low-end so shouldn’t be used anywhere an add on video card and especially when there is more than the one screen hooked up and various other additional hardware present.

Your build needs a minimum of a 550W or above Gold efficiency rated PSU from one of the following, Corsair RM range, EVGA, Seasonic or Super Flower, seven year warranty minimum but preferably ten.
Power Profile
Active power scheme:[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)] High performance

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues and a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.

In addition to the above, this PC has never been set up correctly since day one and rather than the required drivers being installed in the correct order the system has been running on drivers downloaded and installed by Windows 11 and that is a recipe for disaster.[/COLOR]

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

Rated – Tier C • Low-end so shouldn’t be used anywhere an add on video card and especially when there is more than the one screen hooked up and various other additional hardware present.

Your build needs a minimum of a 550W or above Gold efficiency rated PSU from one of the following, Corsair RM range, EVGA, Seasonic or Super Flower, seven year warranty minimum but preferably ten.

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues and a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.

In addition to the above, this PC has never been set up correctly since day one and rather than the required drivers being installed in the correct order the system has been running on drivers downloaded and installed by Windows 11 and that is a recipe for disaster.

I should preface that I have changed some of the original hardware. The SSD and RAM is new. The SSD before was one branded by the company, and the RAM was HX432C16FB3K2/16. I had changed the SSD and RAM based on what Crucial told me was compatible with my then current setup.

But I had no idea my power consumptions could be to blame.

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

Rated – Tier C • Low-end so shouldn’t be used anywhere an add on video card and especially when there is more than the one screen hooked up and various other additional hardware present.

Your build needs a minimum of a 550W or above Gold efficiency rated PSU from one of the following, Corsair RM range, EVGA, Seasonic or Super Flower, seven year warranty minimum but preferably ten.

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues and a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.

In addition to the above, this PC has never been set up correctly since day one and rather than the required drivers being installed in the correct order the system has been running on drivers downloaded and installed by Windows 11 and that is a recipe for disaster.

I should preface that I have changed some of the original hardware. The SSD and RAM is new. The SSD before was one branded by the company, and the RAM was HX432C16FB3K2/16. I had changed the SSD and RAM based on what Crucial told me was compatible with my then current setup.

But I had no idea my power consumptions could be to blame.

[phillpower2]

I should preface that I have changed some of the original hardware.

Not sure why you think that the above is relevant as it has no bearing on the hardware that you presently have hooked up.

I had changed the SSD and RAM based on what Crucial told me was compatible with my then current setup.

The SSD is fine but the RAM could have been 2666MHz as that is the fastest speed that your CPU can handle and the very reason that it is working at the below;
Channels #: Dual
DRAM Frequency: [COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]1330.1 MHz

I had no idea my power consumptions could be to blame.

The PSU is the most important component of all in a computer and if you go cheap you go broke.

Can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed, thanks.[/COLOR]

[phillpower2]

I should preface that I have changed some of the original hardware.

Not sure why you think that the above is relevant as it has no bearing on the hardware that you presently have hooked up.

I had changed the SSD and RAM based on what Crucial told me was compatible with my then current setup.

The SSD is fine but the RAM could have been 2666MHz as that is the fastest speed that your CPU can handle and the very reason that it is working at the below;
Channels #: Dual
DRAM Frequency: [COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]1330.1 MHz

I had no idea my power consumptions could be to blame.

The PSU is the most important component of all in a computer and if you go cheap you go broke.

Can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed, thanks.[/COLOR]

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

I was refering to when you said my PC was never set up properly from day one because my PC isn’t using original hardware by the manufature. The SSD and RAm was installed by me, an amature. I didn’t know I somehow ****** something up.

I had asked another forum what specs I should get to improve my PC and they recommended this one. There are so many numbers and specs in each piece of hardware that I do not know the relevance to and what I should keep in mind when choosing specs so I relied on help.
I am looking at the link you posted and I don’t see how you got the 2666MHz from so I assume it’s something I don’t understand.

This is my first custom built PC I’ve ever had and I don’t know how to figure out what parts to get, so I relied on the company I got the PC from to guide me in choosing the right components.
And sorry, I don’t know how to use the quote system from here so I just clicked the reply button, not assuming you’d need to reread your whole message.

In any case is there something I can do to aleviate my problem without having to buy new components?

[Alexander_De_Filippi]

I was refering to when you said my PC was never set up properly from day one because my PC isn’t using original hardware by the manufature. The SSD and RAm was installed by me, an amature. I didn’t know I somehow ****** something up.

I had asked another forum what specs I should get to improve my PC and they recommended this one. There are so many numbers and specs in each piece of hardware that I do not know the relevance to and what I should keep in mind when choosing specs so I relied on help.
I am looking at the link you posted and I don’t see how you got the 2666MHz from so I assume it’s something I don’t understand.

This is my first custom built PC I’ve ever had and I don’t know how to figure out what parts to get, so I relied on the company I got the PC from to guide me in choosing the right components.
And sorry, I don’t know how to use the quote system from here so I just clicked the reply button, not assuming you’d need to reread your whole message.

In any case is there something I can do to aleviate my problem without having to buy new components?