New build stopped working after a few hours. Lights on CPU, DRAM, VGA. Reboots itself every 15 sec. No display on both GPU and Mobo.

[idkman]

CPU : I5-13600K

Mobo : MSI MAG B760 GAMING WIFI

RAM : 32GB (2x16) DDR5 6000 MHz CL30

Hello,

I built my first PC and everything worked fine for a few hours until I changed my monitor settings to disable Smart HDR. The moment I clicked on “off” I lost signal and the monitor suddenly didn’t recognize my PC. The DP cable works.

I rebooted the computer but it kept rebooting every 15 sec. It starts with the CPU on red for about 1 sec and turns off, then goes to orange on the DRAM for about 1 sec and turns off, then to white on VGA for about 3 sec and turns off, then no light for about 10 sec and it reboots. The fans are turning but the RGB lights do not (there’s a green dot for half a second but that’s it).

When I spam the Delete key, my PC doesn’t reboot and it seems I get access to the BIOS, but since I have no display I can’t see what I’m doing.

When I boot without RAM I have the DRAM led staying on and the PC doesn’t reboot. No beeping sound at all. When I put one RAM stick on the first slot closest to the CPU the PC doesn’t boot at all, as if the PSU is dead. Still no display in all these instances.

I have tried

• Removing the CMOS battery and wait for 30 min
• Shorting the pins
• Booting with 1 RAM stick
• Booting without RAM
• Booting without GPU
• Plugging CPU_POWER2
• Checking for loose cables and RAM
• Plugging the GPU on a different PCI5 slot

Note that I did change the RAM frequency and went from 4200 to 6000 MHz. This was done a few hours prior to my problem and I did reboot the PC to confirm the BIOS change with no issue.

Any idea? I’m getting desperate…

[phillpower2]

CPU : I5-13600K
RAM : 32GB (2x16) DDR5[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)] 6000 MHz CL30
[/COLOR]

[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]
The RAM is not appropriate for your CPU, Intel state here up to DDR5 5600MHz/MT/s and if you have XMP enabled the RAM will get auto OCd past what the CPU can handle and the PC will become unstable.

The following checks require the computer case to be opened so take the following safety precautions 1st, disconnect the power cord from the wall socket, press the case power button for twenty seconds or so to get rid of any residual charge in the system, take anti static precautions before touching anything inside, you can do this by touching a bare metal part of the case or PSU.

Again press the case power button for twenty seconds or so.

Remove the CMOS battery and leave it out for a good while, overnight if possible.

Put the CMOS battery back in.

Reassemble the computer, hook up a keyboard, connect to the power outlet, power up with your fingers crossed, post back with an update for us.

[COLOR=rgb(44, 130, 201)]Edit to add: You never provided your GPU or PSU information, if the above does not help you need to provide the exact details for both components.[/COLOR][/color]

[idkman]

Thanks a lot for your reply.

Interesting, I didn’t know about the CPU/RAM incompatibility. There was no such information on PCpartpicker. Did I burn the CPU then?

I will do another CMOS reset but I don’t think it’s necessary. I left it out for a good 30 min.

I will post an update when I’m done.

PSU : MSI MAG 850GL
GPU : 4060 Ti 16GB

[phillpower2]

The CPU will not have been damaged by the RAM being too fast for it to handle.

I will do another CMOS reset but I don’t think it’s necessary. I left it out for a good 30 min.

Your PC to do as you see fit but why post on a tech forum asking for help and then question the guidance.

Just like you did not know about the RAM speed limitations you look to be unaware of the fact that simply leaving a CMOS battery out for thirty minutes does not clear the BIOS settings. hence the reason why the below was suggested;

disconnect the power cord from the wall socket, press the case power button for twenty seconds or so to get rid of any residual charge in the system,

There is enough charge left in the system to keep the BIOS chip powered and while there is power going to the BIOS chip the previously bad settings that you saved will still be there, not having a keyboard hooked up can also prevent a PC from passing POST.

A decent GPU and PSU to power it, when you reassemble be sure that you connect the screen to the GPU and not a video port on the MB.

You are welcome btw.

[idkman]

Good news! After a proper CMOS reset (I left the battery out for close to a day), I now have display and the RGB fans light up. I can get access to the BIOS and the settings are back to default.

However, I still experience reboots after a couple seconds with both the CPU and the RAM leds turning on. This happens when Windows is about to load.

I will try reseating the CPU and motherboard.

[idkman]

Does it look like all the pins are bent?

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[phillpower2]

Good news! After a proper CMOS reset (I left the battery out for close to a day),

What did I tell you :sneaky: it won’t bring back a MB that is hosed but following the steps that were provided will always as in 100% clear any saved bad BIOS settings that cause issues such as what you were having.

I see no damage to the CPU but can I ask a couple of questions;

Why did you feel that it was necessary to remove the CPU, it would not have been suggested here, if it were a bent pin the PC would not of worked at all let alone for a few hours.

Was the thermal compound that we can see pre applied to the heatsink or did you apply it, if the latter, what brand of compound was used.

Do you have the appropriate cleaning agent and lint free cloth or coffee filter papers to be able to properly and correctly clean off the old gunk.

What brand of thermal compound do you have for the reapplication.

[idkman]

Thank you for your reply!

Since the CPU led turns red I thought it was a problem with it.

The paste was included with the CPU cooler (MSI MAG 850GL). I put a little too much though.

I have lint free cloths and a new thermal compound called Arctic MX-6.

I also bought a new motherboard, same model, do you think I should test it?

[phillpower2]

The paste was included with the CPU cooler (MSI MAG 850GL). I put a little too much though.

I’ll say that you did, thermal compound initially spreads when it first get super hot and when the computer gets turned off the compound after curing partially solidifies, if you put too much compound on or apply it incorrectly the compound can ooze into the CPU socket or get on the MBs electrical circuit and this would cause you the exact type of behaviour that you have had, this is because the system is getting a short circuit,short version, you do and should not apply thermal compound in such a way, I only use Arctic Silver 5 and the correct method for your CPU would be 2mm line down the centre of the CPU and just shy of the edge of the CPU, MX-6 differs and has a couple of methods with the most appropriate being a pea sized amount of compound bang in the centre of the CPU, again though spreading it all over the CPU is a big no no.

I would not use any new MB at this time.

What cleaning agent do you have to use to properly clean off and prepare the CPU, doing this right is a must else you will fry the CPU.

You are welcome btw

[idkman]

It doesn’t look like it oozed on the socket, but I’ll clean it off with isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth and apply the new compound appropriately.

Although I have low hope for this being the cause of the issue…

[phillpower2]

Although I have low hope for this being the cause of the issue…

Do you remember questioning how to correctly clear the CMOS, look how that worked out

Levity apart, try and be positive, you have replaced a MB without knowing if it was required so lets hope that all is well and it can be returned along with your financial outlay for the board.

[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Edit to add: Don`t use a microfibre cloth, use either coffee filter papers or a lint free cloth else you will end up with fibres being left behind.[/COLOR]

[idkman]

I cleaned as much as I could and reapplied the new compound but I still encounter the exact same problem…

Here’s a video of what’s happening:

[phillpower2]

Suggest that you remove the MB and do a barebones set-up on a piece of cardboard (make sure it is larger than the MB) only connect the PSU, the screen to the appropriate video port on the MB, 1 stick of RAM in slot A2 and the keyboard.

IF your MB doesn`t have a power test switch you will then need to short out the 2 power on pins on the MB header to get the PSU to activate, you can use a small flat bladed screwdriver or a paper clip bent into a U shape, this is perfectly safe if you do not touch anything else, the idea is to see if we can get a BIOS screen if you do you can then add one component at a time until you find the problem component, [COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]you must power down and remove the power cord from the wall before adding another component.

Let us know if you need help with any of the above.[/COLOR]

[idkman]

Here’s the results:

#1. CPU + PSU + fans + keyboard + DP cable : red CPU light for a sec, then orange RAM light stays on. No display, no reboot.

#2. +1 stick of RAM in A2 : red CPU light for a sec, then orange RAM light for a sec, then VGA for 3 sec, then the green boot light stays on (this is new) and I have display + access to the BIOS. No reboot.

#3. +1 stick of RAM in B2 : same as #2. BIOS recognizes the two sticks.

#4. + USB cables : same as #2.

#5. + JDP1 (power switch, reset switch, power led,…) : same as #2.

At this point I have everything on it except the NVMe SSD.

#6. + NVMe SSD : and my issue is back. Red CPU light for a sec, then orange RAM light for a sec, then white VGA light, then the green boot light flashes for less than a sec, no light until Windows is about to restart, and the PC reboots…

[idkman]

I should add that I’ve watched a YouTube video of a build that uses the same motherboard, and the red/orange/white lights on CPU/RAM/VGA also turn on for a sec when booting the PC.

So I guess these lights are only an issue when they stay on (like I have on DRAM when I boot without RAM), so I’m not sure if there’s a problem with the CPU.

So I guess it’s either the MB or the SSD… I’m not sure about the PSU, but I should have enough watts (850) for my build