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No worries about Speedfan because as said don`t worry if it does not display the same.
Zero wrong with any of your reported temperatures, HWMonitor is very good but the one thing that it does not tell you is the internal temperature of a PSU.
No worries about Speedfan because as said don`t worry if it does not display the same.
Zero wrong with any of your reported temperatures, HWMonitor is very good but the one thing that it does not tell you is the internal temperature of a PSU.
Yes at that point, other times it is 65C+.
Repasting the CPU couldn’t go ahead. Motherboard just died. I switched it off and it never came back on. I even tried with a spare Evga PSU. I think this may be a reason that contributed to the abrupt shutdowns?
I expect a new mobo in a few days and see how things are.
Being well versed in reading HWMonitor it is clear what your CPU temps have been and I stand by what you were advised, there was absolutely nothing at all wrong with your CPU temps, the highest temp reported was 66.1 °C and this was for the most important reading the core of the CPU and the temperature very good considering that it is the maximum that the temperature has reached when under full load.
When you say " I switched it off and it never came back on " do you mean you closed Windows normally and then used the case power button to turn off the PC itself.
What is the model name or number of the EVGA PSU that you tried and is it still covered by any warranty.
MBs don’t just die something normally kills them and fwiw the biggest culprit is the PSU.
Originally posted by Cheekykid
I expect a new mobo in a few days and see how things are.
Please tell me that you are not going to risk using the SS-850KM with any replacement MB.
Being well versed in reading HWMonitor it is clear what your CPU temps have been and I stand by what you were advised, there was absolutely nothing at all wrong with your CPU temps, the highest temp reported was 66.1 °C and this was for the most important reading the core of the CPU and the temperature very good considering that it is the maximum that the temperature has reached when under full load.
When you say " I switched it off and it never came back on " do you mean you closed Windows normally and then used the case power button to turn off the PC itself.
What is the model name or number of the EVGA PSU that you tried and is it still covered by any warranty.
MBs don’t just die something normally kills them and fwiw the biggest culprit is the PSU.
Please tell me that you are not going to risk using the SS-850KM with any replacement MB.
Mind you I had temps 65c+ on windows browsing. Nothing power intensive was going on.
Yes, I shut down Windows normally and then used the case power button to turn on the PC. It never came back on.
I have an inexpensive Evga 600W W2 that I bought 4 years ago for my then retiring PC however I never used that PC. Its been on the side gathering dust so this PSU is literally unused.
Seasonic PSU stills works after testing it with a tester however after this event it is time to retire it even if it wasn’t the reason for the failure. It served me well.
I am looking for a quiet PSU as I work in a quiet environment that has a 10 year warranty. My case has a PSU cover to isolate it from the rest of the system. Do you highly recommend that I keep this divider in place?
Your average and maximum temperatures are perfectly normal and your average temps are actually lower than most users.
EVGA are one of my preferred brands of PSU as they are solid and reliable, what happened when you tried the EVGA[COLOR=rgb(226, 80, 65)] **
Originally posted by Cheekykid
Seasonic PSU stills works after testing it with a tester however after this event it is time to retire it even if it wasn’t the reason for the failure. It served me well.
Did you even watch the videos that were provided !
As a PSU puts out various voltages +3.3V, +5V and +12V it may appear that the PSU is working correctly but it is not, any significant drop of any output can prevent the system from booting up, the other scenario is a significant increase in the output which can be worse as it can fry one or more major components such as the MB, CPU, RAM, add on video card etc.
Cheap PSU testers are not capable of properly testing a PSU and will only give you the most basic of information, save your money.
The attached videos that were provided are the ones that I use as an example to show the sort of equipment that is required to conclusively test a PSU + what can happen when testing old or cheap and nasty PSUs
What the equipment does is simulate a computer under load and so the PSU behaves as it would when it is powering your PC, multimeters and the basic testing devices that you can purchase from some merchants only test the basic voltage output from the PSU rails and so cannot be relied on as 100% conclusive.
Recommending a PSU is no problem but we will need to know the exact hardware that needs to be supported.
Not sure what you mean by a divider but fwiw a noisy PSU = junk.
Can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed, thanks.[/COLOR]
Nothing happened when I tried the Evga. Mobo remained dead.
I did watch the videos provided! As per your recommendation and upon further reflection and research I have decided to retire my Seasonic. It served me well. RIP.
Will update when system is back up and running again.
Divider as shown in the picture attached. Should I have this in place or remove it?
If there was no signs of life at all you may be correct in that the MB has expired but can I just check that you ( A ) Did the paperclip test on the EVGA to see if it activated and if it did when you connected it to the MB did you do ( B ) Disconnect the case power switch from the front panel header on the MB and then short out the pwr + and - pins on the front panel header to see if the PSU activated.
If the divider fits when any new PSU is in place the divider should be put back in place, I like be quiet cases but they should stick with making cases and leave PSUs to the four big outfits already out there.
[COLOR=rgb(44, 130, 201)]Edit to add: Forgot to mention [COLOR=rgb(226, 80, 65)]** in my reply #20, the PC was never going to work correctly with the 600W EVGA PSU as the PSU does not meet the minimum power requirements of the GPU + EVGA only made white efficiency rated PSUs for office type computers that have minimal power requirements as in no add on GPU only onboard video.[/COLOR][/COLOR]
No luck here . New Gigabyte B550 AORUS ELITE AX V2 arrived and I wonder if its DOA? I tested my new psu on my old system and everything works as it should however when I try test the new board with nothing on it, just the board it self, I get no power. Only for a split second when I switch on the power supply switch on the back I see some lights but they go off immediately. Shorting the PW doesn’t do anything. Please check video: Unique Download Link | WeTransfer
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