When pc turned on, the image hangs on the logo of the motherboard with a certain (working) video card

[pridurok1337]

Make and model of the PSU?

What CPU do you have in the system?

When the system is working could you post a speccy?

So other can assist let get a speccy report.

[COLOR=rgb(243, 121, 52)]Do not forget to post the make and model of the PSU if this is a desktop.

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
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[COLOR=rgb(243, 121, 52)]
PSU: Zalman ZM6000-LE. 600W
CPU: AMD FX-8320
Speccy[/color]

[pridurok1337]

Have you reset the BIOS to default?
Did you just add the graphics card without cleanly removing the previous graphics card drivers? If you remove the card does the pc boot with basic display driver?

BIOS to default - tried. Same. Already mentioned it in the post.
I am adding a video card by removing the driver via DDU, turning off the PC and inserting it

[phillpower2]

PSU: Zalman ZM6000-LE. 600W

No such a PSU, the LE range from twelve years ago only included 300, 400 and 500W units, none of them had any efficiency rating, couldn’t produce the claimed output and were in fact so bad that they only had a two year warranty, Zalman PSU specs here
Power Profile
Active power scheme: [COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]High performance

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power, a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.
Partition 1
Partition ID: Disk #0, Partition #1
[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Disk Letter: C:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: BEAD0E46
Size: 111 GB
Used Space: 107 GB (96%)
[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Free Space: 4,21 GB (4%

Windows should never have been installed on such a small capacity drive, 256GB is the minimum.

For Windows to be able to run efficiently and to be able to update you need to have between 20 and 25% of the partition or drive available on a HDD and an SSD between 10 and 15% as free storage space at all times, if you don`t you risk Windows becoming corrupt or not being able to update which puts you at risk of malware attack.

Data only storage devices should not be allowed to get any lower than 10% of free storage space of the full capacity of the drive/partition on the drive, this also to avoid data corruption.

Please note that storage devices can physically fail if the amount of free storage space is allowed to drop below the required 10 or 20/25% minimum.

Uninstall as many unused programs, games, videos and music files as you can and get yourself a means of backing up, an external USB HDD for example, post back when you have between 20 and 25% free storage space on the C: drive/partition and we can go from there.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

[pridurok1337]

No such a PSU, the LE range from twelve years ago only included 300, 400 and 500W units, none of them had any efficiency rating, couldn’t produce the claimed output and were in fact so bad that they only had a two year warranty, Zalman PSU specs here

I’m sorry, I accidentally added an extra zero, PSU is 600-LE

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced

Done

post back when you have between 20 and 25% free storage space on the C: drive/partition and we can go from there.

You suggest me to free up disk space when the problem does not depend on it, are you sure this is necessary? Even without a disk connected the image freezes on the logo of the motherboard and doesn’t even let me enter the BIOS with totally working GPU

[phillpower2]

You suggest me to free up disk space when the problem does not depend on it,

Did you bother to read the explanation that you were afforded :unsure:

Being that you have been able to change the Windows Power Plan to balanced I would not turn the computer off until you have backed up your personal data and freed up the required storage space, the PC may well not boot up next time, if it doesn`t and you have done the suggested you have at least secured your data and ruled out a full drive as being the cause.

In addition to the above, you have been using a PSU that is the equivalent of a ticking bomb waiting to go off and if Windows is broken the computer will not pass the power on self test (POST) because the BIOS can`t find an operating system to hand over to, these are two strong possible causes of your troubles.

First thing that you need to to do is get yourself a PSU that is still covered by warranty, you mentioned having tried another PSU that was 650W but provided no other information about it, if it is as old and poor a quality as the Zalman you are no better off.

[pridurok1337]

Did you bother to read the explanation that you were afforded :unsure:

Of course I did, and I didn’t see any connection to my problem. Maybe i don’t see what you see, but for now I want to start the PC and enter the BIOS with this configuration: motherboard, CPU, RAM, 750ti from ASUS. As far as I know, SSD and Windows don’t play a role in this.

I understand about the PSU, the one I tested is also old and poor quality as far as i found out, but it works, so I try to find another one and test it.

[phillpower2]

if Windows is broken the computer will not pass the power on self test (POST) because the BIOS can`t find an operating system to hand over to

What part of the above are you not understanding, if the BIOS can`t find Windows it will either hang at the BIOS or black screen and if the issue is pre BIOS a bad/weak PSU is more likely.

I understand about the PSU, the one I tested is also old and poor quality as far as i found out, but it works, so I try to find another one and test it.

As per my reply #20, you need to get yourself a PSU that has the appropriate output and preferably one that is still in warranty, EVGA, Corsair and Seasonic the best three brands.

As for the PSU that you say is working;

As a PSU puts out various voltages +3.3V, +5V and +12V it may appear that the PSU is working correctly but it is not, any significant drop of any output can prevent the system from booting up, the other scenario is a significant increase in the output which can be worse as it can fry one or more major components such as the MB, CPU, RAM, add on video card etc.

[pridurok1337]

What part of the above are you not understanding, if the BIOS can`t find Windows it will either hang at the BIOS or black screen and if the issue is pre BIOS a bad/weak PSU is more likely.

what I don’t understand is why the PC does not start only with 750 ti from the asus, but it starts with others, including more powerful video cards, so if the BIOS could not find Windows, then it would do it with other video cards, right?

PSU that has the appropriate output

the same thing with the PSU, unless if it was non-working, would it allow the system to boot in conjunction with the gtx 3060?

[phillpower2]

what I don’t understand is why the PC does not start only with 750 ti from the asus,

Gotcha but does that not suggest to you that the card is faulty, the card has a low power demand and you are quite correct that the storage device and Windows would not stop you from getting anything on the screen so it has to be the GPU itself.

The PSU swap and freeing up storage space guidance remains the same else you will be ending up with a permanently blank screen.

No such GPU as a GTX 3060 btw.

[pridurok1337]

does that not suggest to you that the card is faulty

Then why this card works fine in two other computers?

The PSU swap and freeing up storage space guidance

Will do!

No such GPU as a GTX 3060 btw.

Oh, my mistake, its RTX of course

[phillpower2]

Then why this card works fine in two other computers?

Likewise, why do other more power hungry cards work fine in your PC.

Question, why on earth are you bothering with an almost ten year old GPU when you have an RTX 3060?

[pridurok1337]

Question, why on earth are you bothering with an almost ten year old GPU when you have an RTX 3060?

Not mine either, i have many friends helping me with this

[phillpower2]

The owner of the RTX 3060 will most likely have a decent PSU so any chance that they will let you borrow it to swap in for testing purposes.

[Bruce]

@pridurok1337 - where we at?

[pridurok1337]

@pridurok1337 - where we at?

ah man, i tried playing around with bios versions and installed an older one and now it starts up with a completely black screen and working coolers, both on external video cards and on integrated, removing the battery didn’t help ???