MSI x470 Gaming Plus - red VGA light on

[Nick_Markham]

Hi, I have a red vga light on my MB and the pc won’t post.

I recently upgraded my Ram fromm Hyperx 3200mhz 2x8gb to Kingston Fury Renagade 3200mhz 2x16gb.

The PC was working fine on Saturday as I was playing Star Citizen for about four hours, turned it on this morning, no post, just red vga light on.

I looked at the underside of my GPU and noticed that a cable was preventing one of the three fans on the GPU from spinning.

I’ve tried: -

1. resetting cmos both with jumper and button on MB
2. unplugging all usb and other perifs, keyboard, mouse etc.
3. Trying different working sticks of ram. I recently upfraded my memory.
4. Tried a working vga card (1050ti) from son’s pc, which didn’t work in mine either (in both the usual graphics VGA slot and another PCI slot.
5. Tried diffrent output cables to monitor, display adapter, HDMI.
6. Tried re-seating card numberous times.
7. I also tried my rx580 in my son’s PC and he’s MB displayed the red vga light…so, I’m guessing my GPU is fried at minimum

My system is : -

x470 Gaming Plus
rx580 8gb graphics card
2 x 16gb ingston Fury Renagade 3200mhz
Corsair HX520w PSU

Can anyone help me please? I’d really appreciate it, Cheers, Nick

[Rustys]

What is the make and model for the CPU

1. Tried a working vga card (1050ti) from son’s pc, which didn’t work in mine either (in both the usual graphics VGA slot and another PCI slot.

Did the card remain working when put back into the son’s system?

[Nick_Markham]

What is the make and model for the CPU

Thanks for getting back to me, it’s Ryzen 2600

[Rustys]

Thanks for getting back to me, it’s Ryzen 2600

Thank you unfortunately that processor requires you to have a GPU.

You could see if the issue reproduces by assembling the system bare boned outside of the case on a THICK piece of cardboard.

The other issue I see is that the rx580 8gb graphics card requires a 500-watts PSU.

https://www.amd.com/en/products/graphics/radeon-rx-580

Yours claims to put out 520 watts yet can only produce 480-watts.

[ATTACH type=“full” width=“520px” alt=“Screenshot 2023-01-23 091623.png”]11405[/ATTACH]

[Nick_Markham]

What is the make and model for the CPU

Did the card remain working when put back into the son’s system?

Yes, he’s card worked when i put it back in his PC thankfully…I was dreading destroying it.

[Rustys]

That is good thing. Let us know how things turn out with the other test would also look at getting a better PSU.

[Nick_Markham]

Thank you unfortunately that processor requires you to have a GPU.

You could see if the issue reproduces by assembling the system bare boned outside of the case on a THICK piece of cardboard.

The other issue I see is that the rx580 8gb graphics card requires a 500-watts PSU.

https://www.amd.com/en/products/graphics/radeon-rx-580

Yours claims to put out 520 watts yet can only produce 480-watts.

[ATTACH type=“full” width=“520px” alt=“Screenshot 2023-01-23 091623.png”]11405[/ATTACH]

Yes, I tried 3 lots of 3200mhz memory fromm amazon before settling on the Kingston Fury Renagade. At some point on one of the sets, I up’ed the voltage to 1.35v as I was trying to get a (2x8gb) kit running at 3200mhz with my Hyperx 3200mhz (2x8gb) set. I am wondering now that you said that about the PSU and whether it is the PSU that’s the issue. My sons PSU is a corsair vs450 which suggests it’s not poweful enough either, so maybe the card’s not ruined after all? I would have thought that re-setting the cmos might have set the voltage to whatever the default is. Having said that, it was working with my old ram which i’ve tried again and now it doesn’t. Maybe it is a power issue and i should try a more poweful PSU first?

[Rustys]

Maybe it is a power issue and i should try a more poweful PSU first?

Would defiantly say look into a new PSU.

https://support.lumion.com/hc/en-us/articles/360003476773-Which-power-supply-do-you-need-

Hope this helps.

[Nick_Markham]

Would defiantly say look into a new PSU.

https://support.lumion.com/hc/en-us/articles/360003476773-Which-power-supply-do-you-need-

Hope this helps.

[Nick_Markham]

Thanks, i’ll get another in the first instance and try that. The one thing that doesn’t add up though is that I put my sons’ 1050ti in my PC, which doesn’t require adittional power (the 6 ad 2 pin power plugsthat fit ) and the VGA light still came on. Surely that doesn’t draw what my rx580 does? Thanks for link, (and your help), I’ll read through it.

[Nick_Markham]

Thanks, I’ve got a 750w arriving tomorrow. The one thing that doesn’t add up though is that I put my sons’ 1050ti in my PC, which doesn’t require adittional power (the 6 ad 2 pin power plugsthat fit ) and the VGA light still came on. Surely that doesn’t draw what my rx580 does? Thanks for link, (and your help), I’ll read through it

[Rustys]

I’ve got a 750w arriving tomorrow.

Hoping that it is a correct one.

Could be the fact that the PSU was junk and burned out having to push more than it was capable of.

Depending on the 1050TI can use 250 watts to 400 watts.

Depending on the manufacture of the card and if you sons’ system is a prefabbed.

[Nick_Markham]

Hoping that it is a correct one.

Could be the fact that the PSU was junk and burned out having to push more than it was capable of.

Depending on the 1050TI can use 250 watts to 400 watts.

Depending on the manufacture of the card and if you sons’ system is a prefabbed.

Thanks again for getting back to me.
I tested the PSU following this YT video and it all was good apart from the blue pin 14 - 12v wire which read outside of the tollerance at -10.87v. I’ve read that even though it looks fairly okay, it might not be under any load, so the new PSU should dtermine that hopefully.

PSU arriving tomorrow: - Corsair RM750x 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular ATX 750 Watt Power Supply (135 mm Magnetic Levitation Fan, Wide Compatibility, Reliabile Japanese Capacitors, Extremely Fast Wake-from-Sleep) UK - Black : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories
YT on testing PSU’s with multimeter : -
[MEDIA=youtube]Tr70VyoACPg:323[/MEDIA]

I’ll update with the result in case it helps others in the same situation.

Cheers.

[Rustys]

The new PSU will do just fine.

Please tell me you did not use that useless paper clip test?

Wish that they would STOP suggesting that useless test.

Bad PSUs can pass the paperclip test. The true test that eliminates a PSU from the equation is a replacement or trying that same PSU in another known working machine. Only these 2 can truly rule out a PSU.

Paperclip tests are flawed since you’re advised to induce a load on one end of the PSU to get it to start, that test does not tell you how many watts the PSU can effectively output if connected to a full build.

[Nick_Markham]

The new PSU will do just fine.

Please tell me you did not use that useless paper clip test?

Wish that they would STOP suggesting that useless test.

Bad PSUs can pass the paperclip test. The true test that eliminates a PSU from the equation is a replacement or trying that same PSU in another known working machine. Only these 2 can truly rule out a PSU.

Paperclip tests are flawed since you’re advised to induce a load on one end of the PSU to get it to start, that test does not tell you how many watts the PSU can effectively output if connected to a full build.

Yeah, I did do the paperclip test to get the thing running, but then used a multimeter to test each pin, which I guess is what you’re saying is a waste of time as it’s not under load at the time of the test. I did question the value of it, but thought that if the values were massively out of the tollerence zone without load, that might suggest is ruined for definite. Anyway, I’ll know if it’s the culprit tommorrow when I test everything with a new PSU. Cheers.