First CPU, then DRAM, then BOOT and then the VGA light up.

[zgzdgz]

Hello there, like a couple days back, I was playing sniper elite 5, and as I was going away, I saw the black screen and the rig became unresponsive, with CPU debug light as well. So, I turned it off and turned it back again, it booted to windows, but the windows were very really slow and then after I rebooted again, It did not even booted to windows this time, ONLY the BOOT light were constantly on everytime I try to boot into the windows. So when I looked up in the bios, and what do you know, it does not even detect the nvme ssd that has windows install, so I’ve swapped another ssd and installed the windows into that one, I hoped this fixed thr problem, but just yesterday, same thing happened, except this time, the VGA light went up, so started wondering if this could be one specific component thats causing all of those to light up.

5900x Now, used to be 5600x before
3060 RTX MANLI
B550M-Pro Vdh (Installed newest bios)
AeroCool 750W Lux Rgb
Samsung evo 980 500g nvme ssd
2 TB WD GOLD
1 TB Gygabyte Nvme SSD
16 Gb vengeance 3000mHz

[zgzdgz]

https://ibb.co/Tq7NpPx

https://prnt.sc/AR9sAS30ZI4X

[Bruce]

if you’re lucky, it may be dust build-up or oxidisation somewhere.
pull out the memory and graphics card, clean their circuit boards, contact points and motherboard slots with a soft bristled brush then reseat the components and see if things change.

failing that, next only try one drive connected and one memory stick.

[zgzdgz]

if you’re lucky, it may be dust build-up or oxidisation somewhere.
pull out the memory and graphics card, clean their circuit boards, contact points and motherboard slots with a soft bristled brush then reseat the components and see if things change.

failing that, next only try one drive connected and one memory stick.

Hmmm, memory sticks are fine, since I tested each one of them slot by slot, how oxidation can occur if it wasnt exposed to water or humidity?

[Bruce]

Oxidation simply needs oxygen.
The metal used in the contacts reacts with air and a non-conductive layer can build up.

[zgzdgz]

Oxidation simply needs oxygen.
The metal used in the contacts reacts with air and a non-conductive layer can build up.

But does that happens often in desktops being kept in a room?

[Bruce]

often… no, but often enough that it id the first thing that comes to mind ‘weird’ stuff happens.
let’s just say that if I had a dollar for every time I have ‘fixed’ a PC by merely wiping some contacts, I’d have a few bucks!

plus - “often” if a subjective term. (y)
in a pinch, I’d say about 1 in 20 problematic PC’s were fixed by removing, cleaning and reseating either the RAM and/or the GPU.

even if this doesn’t fix your issue, it’s the lowest hanging fruit in the list of potential causes to tick off.

[zgzdgz]

often… no, but often enough that it id the first thing that comes to mind ‘weird’ stuff happens.
let’s just say that if I had a dollar for every time I have ‘fixed’ a PC by merely wiping some contacts, I’d have a few bucks!

plus - “often” if a subjective term. (y)
in a pinch, I’d say about 1 in 20 problematic PC’s were fixed by removing, cleaning and reseating either the RAM and/or the GPU.

even if this doesn’t fix your issue, it’s the lowest hanging fruit in the list of potential causes to tick off.

To me, personally, it could be between the psu and the motherboard, since I discovered a dead usb port on the back of the pc, yet I’ve heard that, ryzen’s not liking some type of psu’s, also, I don’t know if that makes much sense, but, that same ssd that died on me, I’ve tried it n a different pc, and weirdly enough, I’ve had picture distortion during the boot (I’ve shown before in a previous post with a pic) , just as I did when it died on the previous right, but I was still able to reinstall windows on that “dead” ssd ,a nd funny enough, I was able to retrieve the data that was in it, so

[Bruce]

sounds like you have a few things going on with various hardware components.
I’d be stripping everything out of the case, reassemble it all on a piece of cardboard, and only reconnect stuff needed to get into BIOS.
small steps.
then add one drive, one memory stick - enough to get into Windows.
you need to isolate and fix all the broken bits.

for example, the dead mobo USB port - dead how?
twisted pins?
have they caused a short that went into the mobo?

[zgzdgz]

Yeah, mouse or keyboard used to be connected into that usb port, and all of a sudden, it just stopped working, no physical damage, although, I read that one dude had the same exact problem with with the usb port and in the same place.

[zgzdgz]

Yeah, mouse or keyboard used to be connected into that usb port, and all of a sudden, it just stopped working, no physical damage, although, I read that one dude had the same exact problem with with the usb port and in the same place.

Also, I’ve tested the psu only, and rails seem to be fine, it showed what supposed to be according to the guide online.

[Rustys]

Also, I’ve tested the psu only, and rails seem to be fine, it showed what supposed to be according to the guide online.

How?

Make and model?

[zgzdgz]

How?

With multimeter and by using the fan, using that “paper clip” method to start the psu.

[Rustys]

The paperclip method is crap wish they would get rid of that. The Fan is not enough of a load. The multimeter test is the correct way. Just because it shows that with just a fan what about the drain when all the components are connected.

The best way to tell is to test following the instruction in Post #9 like @Bruce stated.

Make and model?

You missed this.

Unfraternally you CPU does not support onboard graphics, so you have to use a display card so you may need to replace the display card or barrow one.

Do you have anything over clocked?

How does the system run in a clean boot?

[zgzdgz]

The paperclip method is crap wish they would get rid of that. The Fan is not enough of a load. The multimeter test is the correct way. Just because it shows that with just a fan what about the drain when all the components are connected.

The best way to tell is to test following the instruction in Post #9 like @Bruce stated.

You missed this.

Unfraternally you CPU does not support onboard graphics, so you have to use a display card so you may need to replace the display card or barrow one.

Do you have anything over clocked?

How does the system run in a clean boot?

So multimeter might be incorrect ?

As of now, no black outs, no reboots, no ez debug lights, and it’s extremely hard to determine if I’ve made any progress after I switched the components, since it can happen any time of the day, week, or a month, yet I still managed to do prime 95 for about 45~mins and some heavy gaming, and still, no error so far,