PC beeping and nothing showing on monitor

[phillpower2]

Yep that`s it (y)

The PCI-E slots are all shown to be working so something else is amiss and there are a couple of possible causes from what we can see in Speccy.

PCI Data
Slot PCI-E
Slot Type: PCI-E
[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Slot Usage: Available
Data lanes: x16
[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Slot Designation: PCIEX16_1
Characteristics: 3.3V, Shared, PME

The GPU is a Radeon R9 270X PowerColor 2GB OC TurboDuo Edition and this is potential cause #1, this GPU requires the system to be powered by a minimum of a 500W PSU, see specs here the present PSU is from a good brand but apart from being under powered it is also the Value Series which are not intended for anything more than an entry level desktop, this PSU will be damaging the hardware by not being able to provide the required power.

The SSD that Windows is stored on does not have enough storage capacity, you have just updated to Windows 10 version 1903, we are now up to version 1909 which is a major update in itself but to make things more difficult there are also interim updates between the release of the 1903 and 1909, see my canned info below for why this is a major problem.

Partition 3
Partition ID: Disk #0, Partition #3
[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Disk Letter: C:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: F63951F7
Size: 104 GB
Used Space: 86 GB (82%)
[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Free Space: 18 GB (18%)

For Windows to be able to run efficiently and to be able to update you need to have between 20 and 25% of the partition or drive available as free storage space at all times, if you don`t you risk Windows becoming corrupt or not being able to update which puts you at risk of malware attack.

Data only storage devices should not be allowed to get any lower than 10% of free storage space of the full capacity of the drive/partition on the drive, this also to avoid data corruption.

[COLOR=rgb(184, 49, 47)]Please note that storage devices can physically fail if the amount of free storage space is allowed to drop below the required 10 or 20/25% minimum.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

[MichaelT1994]

This is a monster deal of information and I thank you for that. What step do you recommend doing first? And how to go about doing it? Even reading that hurt my brain.

[phillpower2]

You need a better PSU and that is something that we cannot make happen any quicker other than to help you select one, this leaves freeing up space on the SSD, you mention that you purchased the computer off a friend so can I ask who`s is all the data on the SSD, it needs to go to free up the space you need.

[MichaelT1994]

Everything is his. As I say I’ve only started using this yesterday and all I’ve done is download a couple of games and streamlabs etc.

[MichaelT1994]

Says here previous windows installation(s) is taking up 27.0 GB. Is it safe to remove that?

[phillpower2]

Your best option for now then is to use the Update now option here just choose not to keep anything on the drive to get rid of all the old stuff on the drive, you will still need to get a bigger SSD in the future or you will run out of space again, just remember while stuck with this SSD save everything to the other drive and keep the SSD just for Windows.

[MichaelT1994]

Okay thank you (Y) I’ve just realised H1Z1 is saved to there so that can get moved and I’m updating windows now.

So is there any way to get back to the original PCI-E slot? This one seems to be running my games not too bad for now but I’ve not really put it to the test yet. I’ve also seen a thing called Driver Booster 7 to update my drivers would you recommend doing this?

[phillpower2]

Get Windows updated, if all is ok, create a new system restore point, shut down and isolate the computer from the mains, press the power on button to get rid of any residual charge in the system, ground yourself on a bare metal part of the case or PSU to get rid of any static, swap the card into the other PCI-E slot making sure that it is secure while not pressing down to hard on anything, reassemble, test then post back with an update for us.

I’ve also seen a thing called Driver Booster 7 to update my drivers would you recommend doing this?

Please stay away from such garbage, it normally ends in tears, I have another canned for this as well, see below;

Once Windows has been installed, you install the necessary drivers for the MB and other hardware and then leave well alone, drivers should not be allowed to auto update and you should never update any driver/s unless the new drivers are intended to resolve a specific issue that you are having, installing new drivers unnecessarily can actually cause you the very issues that any new drivers are intended to resolve and uninstalling the new drivers may not resolve the problem/s that installing the new drivers has caused.

Depending on priority it can take many months before the driver provider releases any fix and they sometimes do not even bother.

[MichaelT1994]

I’ve tried the card into the other PCI-E slot and no luck unfortunately.

Okay I will keep that in mind thanks.

Wonder why the other slot isn’t working. It’s not the end of the World but it would be nice to utilise.

[phillpower2]

I did mention one possible cause back in my reply #16

The GPU is a Radeon R9 270X PowerColor 2GB OC TurboDuo Edition and this is potential cause #1, this GPU requires the system to be powered by a minimum of a 500W PSU, see specs here the present PSU is from a good brand but apart from being under powered it is also the Value Series which are not intended for anything more than an entry level desktop, this PSU will be damaging the hardware by not being able to provide the required power.

The X4 slot draws less power so the 450W may be able to cope, hard to prove though without having the appropriate 500W to test the theory.

[MichaelT1994]

I see I see. So a new PSU is looking like the next purchase then. Any you would recommend that are not too expensive?

[phillpower2]

I[ICODE]m a proper nag when it comes to PSUs, the least expensive quality brand Bronze efficiency rated 500W PSU that I could find is the Seasonic [here]('https://www.scan.co.uk/products/500w-seasonic-s12iii-fully-wired-80plus-bronze-single-rail-40a-120mm-fan-atx-psu?utm_source=pc%20part%20picker&utm_medium=refer ral') the proof of it[/ICODE]s quality apart from the name is the five year warranty period.

You are of course free to choose your own but if you do please use the links in my sig for brands to choose and brands to avoid.

Just so you are aware and before you purchase any new PSU, if the PCI-E X16 slot on the MB is bad upgrading the PSU will not fix it and last but not least as is always advised see if you are able to borrow a known good minimum of a 500W PSU to swap in for testing before you head off and purchase a new one, we like to cover all bases before folk part with their cash.

[MichaelT1994]

Okay great. Won’t get round to testing until this until this whole covid-19 is over however :ROFLMAO:

One last thing (I know I’ve asked a lot) my fans sound like a jet engine most of the time. Is there an easy fix for this or is this again related to the PSU?

[phillpower2]

No worries, you have the info that you need when the time is right to act upon it.

It depends on what is going on with the fans and whether or not they can be controlled, if the fans are the 4 pin type you should be ok, you have an ASUS MB so start here

[MichaelT1994]

Me again :ROFLMAO:

I was streaming Fortnite earlier and using Streamlabs and my computer crashed after an hour. Was quite frustrating. I know this is a heavy load on my CPU but just wondering if there was any tips or tricks around this happening. Thanks again for your help and sorry for being a pain. Or is this down to the low PSU?