Cannot install Windows 10 from DVD or USB-stick

[PeterOz]

No NEVER use programs like that
Before doing any install, it is a good idea to go to the support page for your system. Download the drivers you are going to need ie chipset, sound, video, wireless, etc. While win10 has a lot of native drivers, microsoft drivers are designed for ease of use and are NOT designed for any type of performance. Store these drivers on another usb or you can even just make a folder on your install usb when you are finished making the install usb. Copy the drivers into that folder.

When you are finished with the install, then install your drivers. Install the chipset first then the rest of them. Reboot each time when prompted.

[PeterOz]

The drive is MBR. Is that a problem ?

Not if it works
Can I count on this installation being a good one
Need to check some things
It was meant as a backup for a new installation and it failed.
Did you do make this partition ?
I want to have two internal drives anyway. The reason is mainly as a backup. The last time I didn’t actually install an OS on the free partition
2 drives are not a problem- it is a matter of getting 1 drive working first.
you don’t put a 2nd os on you make an image or a backup.

[PeterOz]

What should I do with all the programs that were conserved ? Some of them actually still work
Are they working from the new build?
Connecting to a network fails
If you have the original Gigabyte install dvd disk load it and install all drivers.

[PeterOz]

Hi something going wron with posting
I have split it up
I hope it makes sense
Please ask if not clear
I need an admin to look at why my post will not work.
Do you have internet

[Amoranemix2]

What is wrong with using Driver Booster ?

Yes, I have internet. I had a network driver stored somewhere on the internal HDD (now drive C). I have a folder ‘Installation programs’ where I store all software I explicitely download from the internet.

Why go to support page of the motherboard i.s.o. using CD/DVD that came with it ?

On the E 8600 I also had have 2 internal drives. One with a Win 7 installation and one with a Vista installation. The Vista installation served as backup. For the same reason on the Ryzen 5 I kept a free partition on the HDD, but I have never installed an OS there. It would have served as a backup in the sense that I could meddle in that partition with less risk destroying data elsewhere. It looks now that even if I had, it may not have worked, since I didn’t know had to avoid having 2 internal drives during installation.

A second OS requires less maintenance. Normally you shouldn’t even have to look at it. (I would check whether the Vista OS on the E 8600 still works if the PC didn’t take 20 minutes to start.) The backup data or image I put on an external drive (the one that failed).

Many programs that were installed under OS installation 1, also work under OS installation 2. Others don’t. OS installation 1 is broken. That creates a mess. I can keep the ones that work, but what about those that don’t ? Uninstalling them is unlikely to work. Just deleting the program folders will leave trash behind.

I tried to remove write protection of the SSD as described in www.howtogeek.com/740429/how-to-remove-write-protection-on-windows-10, with no success. Formatting doesn’t work either, because the drive is write protected.

So, I will probably buy a new SSD, install Windows on it and then improvise. That way I won’t need to care much about the OS installation on the HDD, which is fishy anyway.

[PeterOz]

Why go to support page of the motherboard i.s.o. using CD/DVD that came with it

I said go to support page if you DO NOT have dvd

What is wrong with using Driver Booster ?

Should never use programs like that or regestriy cleaners

the same reason on the Ryzen 5 I kept a free partition on the HDD, but I have never installed an OS there. It would have served as a backup in the sense that I could meddle in that partition with less risk destroying data elsewhere

No
If the drive dies you have nothing.
A backup drive is either a clone or an image so when a drive dies like the ssd did you can continue.
A partition very rarely dies.

I tried to remove write protection of the SSD as described in www.howtogeek.com/740429/how-to-remove-write-protection-on-windows-10, with no success. Formatting doesn’t work either, because the drive is write protected

You have to understand the ssd is DOOD (dead)

o, I will probably buy a new SSD, install Windows

if youbuy a new ssd
Fresh install windows 10 with only ssd connected (1 drive only)
Install all drivers from DVD NOT driver booster
Install all programs.
Use a program like Macrium reflect free to make an image of ssd - or clone.

OS installation 1 is broken

We can look at getting rid of this to clean up hdd

[Amoranemix2]

[COLOR=rgb(97, 189, 109)]PeterOz :
No
If the drive dies you have nothing.
A backup drive is either a clone or an image so when a drive dies like the ssd did you can continue.
A partition very rarely dies.
If the second internal drive fails, why would I not have the primary/main drive ?

On the E 8600, I tried starting both Vista and Ubuntu (installed) and both worked.

I installed the SSD on the second connector/port of the Ryzen 5, a generation 2 one. It is still write protected. So its not the motherboard. The drive age < 5 years, so it should still be under limited warranty. But waiting for that would take too long. I ordered a Kingston KC2500 1TB that should arrive tomorrow (from a different shop than where I bought the external HD).

[COLOR=rgb(97, 189, 109)]PeterOz :
Use a program like Macrium reflect free to make an image of ssd - or clone.
Cloning to an external drive is time consuming when it gets full.
The external HD comes with a program for backing that I haven’t looked into yet. Maybe I will use that in stead.
[COLOR=rgb(97, 189, 109)]
PeterOz :
We can look at getting rid of this to clean up hdd
OS installation 1 is on the SSD. OS installation 2 does not seem in good shape.

Posted from the Ryzen 5.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

[PeterOz]

If the second internal drive fails, why would I not have the primary/main drive ?

Not drive you said partition

kept a free partition on the HDD, but I have never installed an OS there

[COLOR=rgb(97, 189, 109)]Use a program like Macrium reflect free to make an image of ssd - or clone.
Cloning to an external drive is time consuming when it gets full.
The external HD comes with a program for backing that I haven’t looked into yet. Maybe I will use that in stead.
[/COLOR]

[COLOR=rgb(97, 189, 109)]
You miss understand
You clone or image to the HDD which is an internal drive.

What I would look at is partition new ssd 250 C: drive and programs only.
2nd partition Data drive
Fresh install windows 10 with only ssd connected (1 drive only) on first partition (250gb)
Install all drivers from DVD NOT driver booster
Install all programs.

You then format the HDD (current one)
You then make an image of new ssd C: drive only.
You backup you data to external drive.
When you add a new program you make a new image (can still use computer when it makes the image)
If new ssd has problems - virus ,ransomware etc
You then re-install the image from the internal HDD to the SSD
and you restore data from external drive[/color]

[Amoranemix2]

[COLOR=rgb(65, 168, 95)]PeterOz :
Not drive you said partition
The previous setup I used was :

• Partition 1 of 465 GB on SSD : contains Windows 10, documents and some programs.
• Partition 2 of 2000 GB on HDD : contains programs and data
• Free partition of 1670 GB on HDD : was meant for second OS.

I backed up data to an external HDD (the one that failed). That was cumbersome because problems and not being clear where data were (e.g. saved games).

If I had correctly installed Windows 10 on the free partition (but I didn’t know I would have to disconnect the SSD), then I should have been able to run that backup installation, backup data more easily and given up sooner on the SSD. It would have saved me time. I thought I could install Windows on the HDD even after a problem occurred with the SSD.

Can one separate the data from the OS ? Aren’t the user folders on the same drive as the OS ? According to www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1964-move-users-folder-location-windows-10-a.html it can.

These images, are they incremental or do three consecutive images o 400 GB require 1200 GB of space ?

Based on your advice I am currently envisioning the following :

• Partition 1 of 400 GB on SSD : OS and some programs.
• Partition 2 of 530 GB on SSD : user folders
• Partition 3 of 2000GB on HDD : Some programs and other data.
• Partition 4 of 167 GB on HDD : Backup OS installation + image of partition 1 + backup of data of partition 2

Then I sometimes backup the data of partition 2 and the backups from parition 4 to external HDD.

An alternative would be :

• Partition 1 of 930 GB on SSD : OS, most programs and user folders
• Partition 2 of 2000 GB on HDD : all other data and few programs
• Partition 3 of 1670 GB on HDD : Backup OS installation + image of partition 1

Then I sometimes backup data of partition 2 and the image of partition 1 to the external HDD.

I also have a write protected 465 GB partition available. Some of the programs on it still work.

In the above configurations is there a good reason to install programs on the SSD, other than speed ?[/COLOR]

[PeterOz]

Backing up to the same drive in my opinion is a bad idea.
Drive goes bad you won’t be able to access anything.
The first backup is normally the longest.
After that they are quicker.
You can backup when using the computer

I will ask someone else to give an opinion on backups
I basically do not do backups
@Bruce Could you advise about backups
You don’t need to read this thread maybe post %53 & 54

[Bruce]

just to get it off my chest…
the whole idea of having the OS installed twice makes no sense to me - but each to his own.
and as to Drive Booster - all those type of ‘help’ programs that I have ever used are nothing more than malicious, ineffective utilities that almost always makes things worse rather than better, and are already covered by Windows Updates.
rant over!

so - Backing Up 101.

you have all your precious data on one drive.
that data should be copied (backed up) elsewhere in case the original data is compromised.
if accidental deletion by the user is all you are concerned about, copying that data to another folder on the same drive will suffice.

what about the drive failing or the PC catching fire.
now you need to copy that data to another storage medium, separate to the main drive, and ideally, separate to the PC.

do you want to protect your data from the house burning down, PC being stolen etc?
this is where offsite backups are needed.
once you copy your data to the external drive, that drive is kept somewhere safe, ideally away from your house.
I keep a hard drive in my car and another at the neighbours house.

but what about an Act of God - bushfire, tsunami, earthquake? - chances are that will take out my car and the next-door neighbours house - this is where cloud storage can help.

then you start getting into rolling sets of backup volumes, that is, have multiple external drivers and rotating through them as you use them. this offers ‘version history’ allowing you to go back many months (potentially) to recover a file. scenario - you look for a file, only to find it’s deleted and it was four weeks ago you last edited this file. so the last few weekly backups also have it missing and you need to go back 5 or 6 weeks to locate it.

in short - it all depends on what you are trying to protect yourself against.
and the effort you are prepared to put into safeguarding your data.

[Amoranemix2]

Installing WIndows 10 on Kingston KC 2500 1TB SSD with no other HD connected.
During installation internet again doesn’t work. Again twice
I had to install drivers manually from the Gigabyte motherboard DVD because XPress install keeps crashing.
Driver Booster was easier.

Installation of Avast Antivirus fails. Then succeeds. Installation of Realtech Audio driver seems to fail but it works and according to Windows the drivers are up to date..

I can’t install backup Windows 10 on the free HDD partition because of a problem seen before (in Dutch) : “Cannot install Windows on this disk. The selected disk contains an MBR-partition table. On EFI-systems you can install Windows only on GPT-disks.” There is indeed a system reserved partition of 550 MB and a 200MB EFI partition, probably remnants from the faulty SSD installation.

I try transforming it with Diskpart. It fails. Diskpart can’t tell apart the part the partitions. There is only Disk 0. So I resort to deleting everything with clean and convert to GPT, which seems to have worked. I create a partition of 1,67 GB on it and install Windows as a backup. The Gigabyte installer from DVD again crashes.

Fast forward : The main OS works, the OS backup works, I installed drivers and a few programs in both, incorporated the backups I made and my e-mail works. I’ll try making an image and install more programs tomorrow.
[COLOR=rgb(44, 130, 201)]
Bruce :
then you start getting into rolling sets of backup volumes, that is, have multiple external drivers and rotating through them as you use them. this offers ‘version history’ allowing you to go back many months (potentially) to recover a file. scenario - you look for a file, only to find it’s deleted and it was four weeks ago you last edited this file. so the last few weekly backups also have it missing and you need to go back 5 or 6 weeks to locate it.
I was hoping to have version history without needing a huge amount of space, e.g. with incremental backups.

Why is Windows not asking me for a product key ?[/COLOR]

[PeterOz]

Avast Antivirus fails

You do not need avast - GET RID OF IT
You should use the built in windows defender

I can’t install backup Windows 10 on the free HDD partition because of a problem seen before (in Dutch) : “Cannot install Windows on this disk. The selected disk contains an MBR-partition table. On EFI-systems you can install Windows only on GPT-disks.”

You cannot have mbr and gpt on the same disk.
As mentioned before if your bios is legacy your disk is mbr if your bios is uefi you need gpt.
No matter how many disk you put in the computer because your bios is now uefi they must be set to mbr if you want to put an operating system on them.

Why is Windows not asking me for a product key ?

Windows keeps the key in the bios.

I still think your backup / recovery plan is wrong

During installation internet again doesn’t work

To be expected
Once connected go to the gigabyte site and download chip drivers and what others you need. MUST do chip drivers

[Amoranemix2]

[COLOR=rgb(65, 168, 95)]PeterOz post 38 :
No you need the programs from original source
The saved games of Civilization 3 are in the games installation directory. Good that I copied that too.

I got rid of Avast and am relying on Microsoft Defender.

[COLOR=rgb(65, 168, 95)]PeterOz :
You cannot have mbr and gpt on the same disk.
As mentioned before if your bios is legacy your disk is mbr if your bios is uefi you need gpt.
No matter how many disk you put in the computer because your bios is now uefi they must be set to mbr if you want to put an operating system on them.
You probably mean set to gpt. The UEFI setting in the BIOS is supposed to be set to ‘Disabled’. I suspect it is because of the EFI partition that Windows complained.

[COLOR=rgb(65, 168, 95)]PeterOz :
Windows keeps the key in the bios.
I don’t think I ever provided that key. It is hidden behind something that I have yet to scratch away.

The new external HDD turns out not to have backup software after all. I tried Macrium Reflect free for image backuping, but that doesn’t work. What do you suggest as good alternative ? I am considering O&O DiskImage Express.[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]

[PeterOz]

Macrium Reflect free for image backuping, but that doesn’t work

In what way