PC randomly restarts when playing low-demanding games (Kernel-Power 41)

[AAA]

My PC keeps crashing with Kernel-Power (code 41) error when I launch games, which are not high demanding (Dota2 for example). I did memory tests, updated BIOS, cleaned the memory sticks, checked that CPU and GPU are not overheating. Everything looks fine, all the tests turned out as no errors, nothing is being overclocked and I checked for viruses, but PC keeps restarting. Sometimes it crashes mid-game, sometimes on launch, sometimes doesn't crash at all, no pattern found at all. Is there a way to fix this issue?

 

[Bastet]

Is the graphics card driver up to date?
Ensure there’s no dust or fluff blocking the fans or vents.

 

[AAA]

Is the graphics card driver up to date?
Ensure there’s no dust or fluff blocking the fans or vents.

Cleaned all the dust with a vacuum cleaner just 20 minutes ago, and updated the driver earlier today, thought it was the issue too.

 

[AAA]

My PC keeps crashing with Kernel-Power (code 41) error when I launch games, which are not high demanding (Dota2 for example). I did memory tests, updated BIOS, cleaned the memory sticks, checked that CPU and GPU are not overheating. Everything looks fine, all the tests turned out as no errors, nothing is being overclocked and I checked for viruses, but PC keeps restarting. Sometimes it crashes mid-game, sometimes on launch, sometimes doesn't crash at all, no pattern found at all. Is there a way to fix this issue?

Added the screenshot from Speccy as I see it is frequently asked for on this forum

 

[phillpower2]

My PC keeps crashing with Kernel-Power (code 41) error when I launch games,

That error is not the cause of the problem it is generated as a consequence of the computer turning off before Windows has been shut down.

If the computer is a desktop can you post the brand and model name or number of the power supply (PSU).

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.

 

[AAA]

That error is not the cause of the problem it is generated as a consequence of the computer turning off before Windows has been shut down.

If the computer is a desktop can you post the brand and model name or number of the power supply (PSU).

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/pGue77aOSQ1VhWtxCCJHcEa

This is the snapshot you asked for.
Power supply is DeepCool DA700

PS. I might not be able to reply right away as I live in Europe

 

[phillpower2]

You have a few issues going on there but will stick with the most pressing for now.

Power supply is DeepCool DA700

Complete junk that should not be used anywhere near an add on GPU, so poor that it only makes Tier D • Recommended only for very cheap, iGPU systems here

You need a better quality PSU from either EVGA or Seasonic, being an older GPU a 500W or above Bronze efficiency rated PSU from either will do.

To protect the GPU, consider removing it and using the onboard video while you get a more appropriate PSU.

Power Profile
Active power scheme: High performance

Change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power and a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.

type: DDR4
Size: 8192 MBytes
manufacturer: Kingston
Max Bandwidth: DDR4-2400 (1200 MHz)
Part Number: KHX3200C16D4/8GX

That is the wrong RAM for your CPU, Intel state here up to 2666MHz and if you have XMP or enabled the RAM will get auto OCd past what the CPU can handle and the PC fall over.

Go into the BIOS, disable XMP and then manually set the RAM to run at 2666MHz and the voltage to 1.35V, save the new settings an exit the BIOS.

Will leave it at that for now.

Can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed,, thanks.

 

[AAA]

I did what you told me to do, but BIOS just refused to boot until I reverted it to 'optimized settings'.
I am not able to find where I can change the Power Plan, google told me where to look, but there is nothing there.
Could you give me some recomendations about what RAM I should get, since BIOS doesn't let me change anything?

 

[AAA]

Okay, I looked for PC parts with specs that you told me about, and it seems like

AMD Radeon R7 DDR4 16GB (2x8) 2666MHz (R7S416G2606U2K)​

RAM is fine and

SeaSonic 750W G12 (G12 GC-750)​

Power Supply also fits the specs you gave me.

Are these two good for my PC, or should I look for something else?

 

[phillpower2]

Purchase nothing for the time being when it comes to the RAM, just leave it as the optimised settings in the BIOS, run Speccy again, post the new url for us.

Where did Google tell you to look for the Balanced Power Plan, the default in Windows is Balanced so someone along the way has changed it to High Performance.

The Seasonic is a good PSU as long as the price is right.

 

[AAA]

I found the Powen Plan and adjusted it to balanced.

I tried all I could with RAM, but it won't let me manually change anything, only by enabling XMP which you told me not to.

I removed the GPU, left the on-board one, and will order a new PSU, should come tomorrow-the day after, I'll post the update on how the PC works.

Here is the new url: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/8GtY38vXEAvfYwp4mzCJC0e

 

[phillpower2]

Did you notice that the temperatures have dropped now that you have removed the add on GPU, that is because the PSU is not having to work so hard and generating extra heat.

We will come back to the RAM in due course but you have a couple of other things that you need to address, you are in danger of losing all of the data on the Hitachi HDD and the SSD that you have Windows on is too small, it needs to be at least 250/256GB, you will soon run out of space for Windows 10 and Defender updates which also rules out the free upgrade to Windows 11 and the data on the Hitachi if not already will start to become corrupt, see my canned info below;

For Windows to be able to run efficiently and to be able to update you need to have between 20 and 25% of the partition or drive available on a HDD and an SSD between 10 and 15% as free storage space at all times, if you don`t you risk Windows becoming corrupt or not being able to update which puts you at risk of malware attack.

Data only storage devices should not be allowed to get any lower than 10% of free storage space of the full capacity of the drive/partition on the drive, this also to avoid data corruption.

Please note that storage devices can physically fail if the amount of free storage space is allowed to drop below the required 10 or 20/25% minimum.

Hard drives
HGST HTS721010A9E630

Partition 0
Partition ID: Disk #0, Partition #0
DiskLetter: D:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 16C86718
Size: 914GB
Used space: 853 GB (93%)
Free space: 60 GB (7%)
Partition 1
Partition ID: Disk #0, Partition #1
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 62C978EA
Size: 17GB
Used space: 16.9 GB (98%)
Free space: 179 MB (2%)

INTEL SSDPEKKW128G7 (SSD)
Partition 1
Partition ID: Disk #1, Partition #1
DiskLetter: C:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 7E2FDFCD
Size: 118GB
Used space: 95 GB (80%)
Free space: 22.8 GB (20%)

20% free on a 256GB SSD would be just about enough to allow for upgrading to Windows 11 so you have no chance with only 22GB free.

Get yourself a 256GB SSD just for Windows, uninstall as many unused programs, games, videos and music files as you can on the Hitachi HDD and get yourself another means of backing up to.

 

[AAA]

Cleaned up some space on the HDD, there is more than 20% free now.
Same for the SSD.
Will literally any SSD go on my motherboard, or should I look for something specific?

 

[phillpower2]

Your present SSD info here

Your MB specs say that the board accepts the below;

1 x M.2 connector (Socket 3, M key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 SATA and PCIe x4/x2 SSD support)

Example of what you need here

Rather than clone the present drive I would clean install Windows 10 and the chipset, storage and video drivers, you will need a couple of USB thumbdrives for this, one 16GB or above for downloading a Windows ISO to and one small capacity drive for saving your drivers to.

Important note, see the below;

Once Windows has been clean installed you must then install first the MBs chipset drivers, then the storage/SATA drivers and third the graphics drivers, the drivers can either come from a disk provided by the motherboard manufacturer or downloaded from their site and saved to a flash drive etc, this is a must and Windows should not be allowed to check for updates before it has been done as more often than not Windows installs the wrong drivers or in the incorrect order and this can cause all sorts of problems.

 

[AAA]

Thank you for the advice, I will buy the SSD with the PSU.
One more question though: everything was fine yesterday, but from today again the PC is crashing non-stop, can’t use it at all. Should I just cease attempts until I instal the new PSU?

 

[phillpower2]

everything was fine yesterday, but from today again the PC is crashing non-stop, can’t use it at all.

It is important that you tell us what happens exactly.

Software such as Windows can crash and when it does crash you get a BSOD and when enabled a crash dmp is generated, programs or games when they crash can on occasion close to the desktop but the computer will still be 100% functional.

Hardware failure such as a weak power supply and/or overheating are not software related and when a computer for example suddenly turns off, freezes or the screen goes black etc the behaviour should be described as the "computer shut down unexpectedly" or froze etc and not as having crashed as the latter implies a software issue as opposed to an obvious hardware issue when described properly.

Having the correct info means that helpers will not be looking for a software issue when the problem is clearly hardware related.

You are welcome btw

 

[AAA]

Sorry for misleading you with saying incorrectly. English is not my first language, and in mine we have the same word for both issues.
But what should I do, just wait until I get the new PSU and install it, correct?

 

[phillpower2]

Sorry for misleading you with saying incorrectly.

No need for any apology but we do need still need to know what happens exactly, software crashes as in blue screens - hardware turns off or black screens, what type of behaviour is your computer doing.

 

[AAA]

It is hardware issues, black screen and restarts, just like in the original post

 

[phillpower2]

Have to agree, hardware related then.