Solved PC Fine Until I Game

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ZachThompson32

PCHF Member
May 30, 2021
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Hello,

I am fairly new to building PCs and built my first back in 2016. I decided to do some upgrades to it to keep up with current games but now when I play some games, the graphics driver crashes or I get glitch marks across the screen that come and go when I reset my computer. I also have to reset about once a day for "freezing" type issues.

What I had was...
  1. Ryzen 5 1400
  2. B350M Gaming Pro Motherboard
  3. 1050Ti
  4. Coolermaster 500
  5. Ballistix 2x8 3200 Ram
I upgraded my CPU, GPU, and PSU to...
  1. Ryzen 5 3500X
  2. 1080
  3. Coolermaster 700
To install the new CPU, I had to upgrade to a beta bios in order for it to load. Ive also noticed that every once in a while my displays will go black and will get the notification sound of something being unplugged.

I am curious as to what is causing these issues without having to take it to a shop for repair as I have already dumped a ton of money into it unless I have to. I think it might be the motherboard being the only thing not really changed or the new bios does not quite work right.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have already contacted MSI and they did not help much. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

-Zach
 
Hello Zach,

ZachThompson32 said:
  1. 1080
  2. Coolermaster 700
Click to expand...

An older high end video card that needs a Gold efficiency rated PSU for stability, Cooler Master have not made a decent PSU for many years and mainly because they are now mass produced in China using cheap wiring and capacitors that heat up when put under load.

Couple of questions for you;

Have you tried putting the 1050Ti back in.

Is the GTX 1080 out of the box new or used but was guaranteed to be in 100% working order.

What is the model name or number of the 700W Cooler Master PSU.

Which power supply do you need?
 
phillpower2 said:
Hello Zach,



An older high end video card that needs a Gold efficiency rated PSU for stability, Cooler Master have not made a decent PSU for many years and mainly because they are now mass produced in China using cheap wiring and capacitors that heat up when put under load.

Couple of questions for you;

Have you tried putting the 1050Ti back in.

Is the GTX 1080 out of the box new or used but was guaranteed to be in 100% working order.

What is the model name or number of the 700W Cooler Master PSU.

Which power supply do you need?
Click to expand...
I no longer have the 1050 sadly. I actually thought I bought a Coolermaster but I actually bought a EVGA 700 BQ Bronze Plus. I remembered it was between those two but got the other one.

The 1080 was "new". It was taken out of the box but never installed in a computer. A friend of mine does mining but never used this card so they sold it to me.
 
You may need to get the GTX 1080 tested by a local tech store then, the EVGA is better than the CM but it is still not appropriate for such a high end video card which btw not being out of the box new you cannot trust regardless of what your friend says, it is after all five years old.
 
Awesome, thank you for your help!

I will go get the card tested and see if thats the problem. If not, I will look at upgrading my power supply again. Thank you again and have a great day!
 
Just a thought, your friend must have a high end build and hopefully including a decent PSU, any chance of them testing the GPU for you.

You are welcome btw :giggle:
 
They moved a few states away so it would be a pain. They said they had it tested before they sent it to me but that doesn't mean much. Like, I'm using it right now and its fine. Its only when I try to pay some games it decides to be a pain.

Side note too, I am not sure how to mark the forum as concluded.
 
A weak PSU that is overheating would cause such behaviour and being that it is only when the PC is under load that the issue happens makes it more likely that the GPU is ok and that the PSU is the cause, be sure to check on any charge that there may be for getting the GPU checked.

We can leave your thread open for a couple of days in case you want to let us know how any testing went, if we don`t hear back from you we will mark the thread for you, thanks for letting us know as well btw (y)
 
Yall are awesome, thanks again. I will get back and post later in the week if I have found it or not. Its all just a little disheartening to have spent so much time and money on something that everything claimed would work and it doesnt. I used a PSU calculator and it only recommended a standard 650, thats why I got the 700 lol.
 
ZachThompson32 said:
I used a PSU calculator and it only recommended a standard 650,
Click to expand...

Never been a fan of PSU calculators and as to why explained below;

Users should always follow what the GPU manufacturer recommends when it comes to the wattage required as it is the card manufacturer that is expected to honour the warranty should the card break and not an unaccountable person on the internet that says that it is ok to ignore any minimum PSU requirements specified by the GPU manufacturer.

Edit to add:

If you would like us to check out the rest of the system do the below;

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
 
No follow up from the OP so as per reply #8 the thread will be marked as solved.
 
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