Solved PC Booting to BIOS

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ryanladd

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Jan 2, 2020
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Hey guys, new member, first post. Hoping somebody can help with this issue I'm having. I tried doing a quick search of the forums but didn't find anything so I apologize if this is something that has been resolved in another thread. Attached is a screenshot of all my hardware information.

I'm planning on selling my PC and I want to get this issue resolved before I do. It's a gaming PC I built it back in 2017. My C: drive is a Samsung 850 PRO 1TB and RAM is 2 sticks of 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200MHz. I also have a Corsair Hydro Series H60 AIO liquid cooler for the CPU and a Seagate FireCuda 2TB as a D: drive, but it currently has no data on it.

So as the title says, my computer has this nasty habit of booting to the BIOS screen. The confusing thing is it does not do this every time I start it, only maybe 70% of the time. It tends to do this in random clusters with no apparent rhyme or reason. It will go a couple days without an issue, then randomly I will need to restart it several times to get it to boot to Windows. After it finally decides to boot to Windows, I will have no further issues whatsoever for the rest of my session, and all of my data seems to be intact. The inside of the PC is free of dust and the BIOS does not give me any clues when I poke around in it. I have noticed though that it seems like there are less drives listed when I have this issue, so maybe it's not recognizing my Samsung drive for some reason?

Another side issue I would like to get resolved before I sell: all of my fans always run at a constant high speed regardless of what I'm doing. They never speed up or slow down; it's just a constant hum of fast fans. I've tried tweaking their settings in the BIOS and nothing seems to work. My core temperature according to CoreTemp is usually a cool 34 C when I'm not gaming, and doesn't get hot at all even when I am. This hasn't been a big deal to me because it's easy to ignore but it's an issue I would like to fix before I sell.

Please let me know if you need any other information and I'll be happy to provide. Thank you
 

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While you wait for others to come in...

Do you have anything over clocked and if you were to turn it off over clocking does it still happen?
Have you factory reset the bios does that make any changes?
Have you update bios?
Clean the keyboard to make sure that there is no key sticking?
 
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We could also do with knowing the brand and model name or number of the PSU and any add on video card.

What you describe is typical behaviour of a couple of things, a loose component or connection (power or SATA cable) and/or a problem with the power good signal between the PSU and the MB.
 
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Rustys said:
While you wait for others to come in...
Do you have anything over clocked and if you were to turn it off over clocking does it still happen?
Have you factory reset the bios does that make any changes?
Have you update bios?
Clean the keyboard to make sure that there is no key sticking?
Click to expand...
Nothing on my system is overclocked.
I have not factory reset the bios and I don't think I'm comfortable doing so.
I just updated the bios to the latest version. It threw me into another "BIOS booting" fit but I managed to boot it back up normally after several restarts.
I'm fairly sure that no keys are sticking because I've had this issue while using 2 different keyboards. I checked anyway and the F2 and Del keys are not sticking.

Thanks!

phillpower2 said:
We could also do with knowing the brand and model name or number of the PSU and any add on video card.

What you describe is typical behaviour of a couple of things, a loose component or connection (power or SATA cable) and/or a problem with the power good signal between the PSU and the MB.
Click to expand...
My bad, completely forgot about the PSU. The exact model is Seasonic G Series 650 SSR-650RM 650W 80+ Gold ATX12V & EPS 12V Semi-Modular

If this PSU doesn't seem to present any incompatibilities with my system then I guess I'll open it up and check the SATA connections.

Thanks!
 
ryanladd said:
If this PSU doesn't seem to present any incompatibilities with my system then I guess I'll open it up and check the SATA connections.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Nevermind, went ahead and checked them anyway. All the SATA connections seem to be snug.

How do I check the power good signal and how do I fix it if there's a problem?

Edit: Also, is there a way to edit old posts? I didn't see the option on my other two posts and I would have just edited them instead of making a new post.
 
Can I ask that you do not quote every reply, it really does not help any and just makes for unnecessary reading, thanks.

Being semi modular you need to check that all modular cables are securely connected to and from the PSU + disconnect and reconnect the ATX connectors from the PSU to the MB.

Can you also provide the requested video card information.

There is no way of the average user checking the MBs power good signal as specialist equipment and the knowledge of how to use it is required, it is normally more cost effective to replace a MB that as a problem with the power good signal and the best check that you could do yourself if it came to it would be trying a known good PSU.

Not sure why but I can see edit on all of your posts, could be something to do with needing a certain number of posts before being able to edit any previous.

Regarding restoring the MBs default factory settings, it is one of the easiest things that you can do and updating the BIOS which you have done is what carries the risk, below is my canned info for "how to";

Try restoring the MBs default factory settings in the BIOS, they are sometimes listed as one of the following " factory defaults" "most stable" or on newer boards "optimized" please note that if your have both the "most stable" and the "optimized" options in the BIOS you should choose the most stable" option as in this instance the "optimized" settings are a form of overclocking that can cause instability.
 
phillpower2 said:
Not sure why but I can see edit on all of your posts, could be something to do with needing a certain number of posts before being able to edit any previous.
Click to expand...
Users are only allowed to edit post for a certain amount of time we can, as staff we can edit post indefinitely. This was done since it was abused by to many users in the past.

While you are in the BIOS make sure that everything is in there correctly RAM, HDD, DVD, so on so forth.

Just because the SATA and other cables are snug does not rule them out. The best way is to disconnect them both ends and reconnect them. Do this with the power connectors as well.

Another thing that could be done is to take the system out of the case and build it on a non metal surface (thick cardboard) and see if still does the same.

Are there any beeping sounds that happen? If your motherboard does not have an internal speaker than get one the BIOS beeps if there are any would also give us a clue what is going on.
 
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Sorry, I'll try to keep the quotes to a minimum, and thanks for the replies. My apologies for the late response, been a bit busy the past couple of days.

My GPU is an Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070. Jeez, can't believe I forgot to list that. Guess I assumed it was listed in the screenshot I posted.

When I built this PC I did some rudimentary research and concluded that the PSU was appropriate wattage for my build. Is it possibly over/under-powered?

Thanks for the suggestions. I opened up my PC and disconnected and re-connected all SATA cables on both ends and all PSU cables on both ends. I also reset my BIOS to factory settings (it did say "Reset to Optimized Settings" but that was my only option so I went with that).

I do not have an internal speaker and there are no beeps. The only sound I have noticed is that there is some white noise in my speakers when I have this issue.

I tried restarting my PC a couple times after doing this and it seems to be running well. But like I said, it will usually behave for a couple days at a time, then I will have the issue in clusters at random.

P.S.: One minor thing I noticed while checking my SATA cables: there are two rows on my MB for SATA connections. I had all of my other SATA devices connected in series to the top row, and for some reason I decided to connect my C: drive next in series, but on the bottom row. I'm not sure why I did this, but is it possible that this is relevant? I re-connected it to the top row with all my other devices.
 
For now I would suggest that you wait and see how things go since you restored the BIOS.

Russ, the PSU is as follows Seasonic G Series 650 SSR-650RM 650W 80+ Gold ATX12V & EPS 12V Semi-Modular
 
Yeah I guess all I can do now is wait. So the SATA port thing didn't seem like something of any consequence?

Also, while I wait, does anybody have any suggestions for my fan problem?
 
Can you post the brand and model name or number for the case and any case fans for us so we can do some research.
 
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