Solved Post Upgrade low FPS and overall performance issues.

Let’s get your complete PC specs.
Get Speccy; https://www.piriform.com/speccy/builds
In Speccy, click File > Publish Snapshot (hit Yes if prompted to proceed with publish) > Copy to Clipboard > Close.
Now you can paste that link into your next post.

List the make/model of the PSU. Just saying 750w PSU doesn't let us know the efficiency rating, warranty or certification.

Is Speccy safe?


As to FPS drops, they are not my thing per say, as I'm not a gamer but here is my stock standard response, see if anything helps.

If you have your PC as lean and clean as you can make it, that's part of the battle.
Sadly, the other parts may be outside your control like; number of users/devices on your network, bandwidth, line attenuation, signal to noise ratio, etc.
Logging into your modem's config menu will show these values.

But things you can control are;

• reboot modem/router/pc
• delete restore points
• turn off hibernation (powercfg -h off)
• empty web browser cache
• delete system temp files
• scan Windows for system corruption (sfc /scannow)
• scan drive for file corruption (chkdsk c: /r)
• disable unwanted scheduled tasks
• disable unnecessary startup services
• disable scheduled defragging
• TRIM any SSD's
• turn off Timeline and Activity History, and all things Microsoft Telemetry based
• empty recycle bin
• delete log files and error reports
• remove old Windows Updates files
• cleanup software installer and distribution caches
• delete unwanted programs
• remove any browser extensions
• if connecting via wireless, try ethernet
• pause any online cloud storage synchronising (OneDrive, DropBox)

CCleaner (free version) or Glary Disk Cleaner or the inbuilt cleanmgr command can do most of those points.
ShutUp10 by O&O Software can stop a lot of telemetry items.
Other things to try;

• create another user account and login under that profile
• check for firmware updates for modem/router and PC BIOS

Do a web speed check - go to www.speedtest.net and post the results.
Have there been any changes in the time frame that the FPS rates have dropped?
Like new software or hardware(apart from the new GPU), or extra users on the network?

It could also be performance rot, and doing a fresh install of Windows may help.

Good find with the mobo and while maybe not the cause, it would of course be the logical thing to replace at this stage.
Hopefully, along with it and the case, you are replacing the power supply as well???

As to the BIOS update, I would be doing that if you are comfortable, they aren't that hard, you just need to be careful.
Mobo manufactures often release updates to their firmware to support the latest GPU's.
But your new mobo should be pretty recent anyways.

Sorry but I prefer to be straight and this set-up is as rough as they come

MadoX said:

Also about the PSU it's aero cool

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They should ship with a fire extinguisher along with a public health warning, Aerocool did make a Platinum efficiency rated PSU years back that wasn`t too bad other than they had a nasty habit of tripping out,, any other unit by them are rated between low end and replace immediately here

Power Profile
Active power scheme: AMD Ryzen High Performance

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While we look at the Speccy report, one thing I will suggest is that you change the Windows Power Plan to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues and a weak PSU such as the one that you have will get hotter and weaker the more that you use it.

Will finish going through Speccy and then get back to you, if you have not post since I will edit this reply.

CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 3600: 38 °C
Matisse 7nm Technology
RAM
16,0GB Single-Channel DDR4 @ 1596MHz (16-20-20-38)
Part Number: KF3600C18D4/16GX

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You have wasted your cash on the 3600MHz RAM I`m afraid, it is not a problem at the moment because it can only work in single channel but if you were to add a matching stick and enable XMP the RAM will get auto OCd past what the CPU can handle and the PC will become unstable.

AMD who are the ones to listen to state here up to 3200MT/s so unless you intend manually OCing the CPU 3200MT/s is your max.

Something to keep in mind for the future, a CPU must be compatible with a MB whereas the RAM has to be compatible with both the CPU and the MB, this because a MB can be compatible with faster CPUs than the one in your list of parts and MB manufacturers often state RAM speeds that far exceed that which any compatible CPU in the board can handle.

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Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
Computer type: Desktop
Installation Date: 2. 6. 2023 15:54:37

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Windows has not been correctly set up since day one, for as to why see my canned info below;

Once Windows has been clean installed you must then install first the MBs chipset drivers then the storage/SATA drivers and third the graphics drivers, the drivers can either come from a disk provided by the motherboard manufacturer or downloaded from their site and saved to a flash drive etc, this is a must and Windows should not be allowed to check for updates before it has been done as more often than not Windows installs the wrong drivers or in the incorrect order and this can cause all sorts of problems.

The reason why this procedure is so important, the chipset is what enables the MB to be able to communicate with all the hardware + are the first drivers that Windows looks for on boot

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The present installation is commonly referred to as a lazy install in my neck of the woods because that is exactly what it is, apart from the other issues one of the main reasons that performance sucks is because other than two HP printer drivers that were installed a week ago and one AMD drivers install three days ago you are running on generic Windows drivers

Partition 1
Partition ID: Disk #2, Partition #1
Drive Letter: C:
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: AE53D4BB
Size: 237 GB
Used Space: 210 GB (88%)
Free Space: 27.6 GB (12%)

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You are about to run into problems with low storage space on the boot drive, see my canned info for this below;

For Windows to be able to run efficiently and to be able to update you need to have between 20 and 25% of the partition or drive available on a HDD and an SSD between 10 and 15% as free storage space at all times, if you don`t you risk Windows becoming corrupt or not being able to update which puts you at risk of malware attack.

Data only storage devices should not be allowed to get any lower than 10% of free storage space of the full capacity of the drive/partition on the drive, this also to avoid data corruption.

Please note that storage devices can physically fail if the amount of free storage space is allowed to drop below the required 10 or 20/25% minimum.

Just a fyi, Windows should always be installed on either its own drive or on a separate partition on a larger drive, this reduces the amount of free space that is required to be kept available + it makes creating a regular back a whole lot easier.

A 256GB SSD or separate partition on a larger capacity drive should be the minimum capacity allowed for.

Equally as important is being prepared for the need to upgrade to another OS, Windows 10 is nearing its end of life and extended support will cease on October 14th, 2025, when the time comes you will only have to worry about upgrading or clean installing Windows to the C: partition as opposed to needing to reinstall all of your programs and data if they were kept on a separate partition on the same drive or a.n. other drive.

Windows will also boot up quicker on its own partition as it does not need to install drivers for any third party programs.

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The present GPU requires the system to be powered by a minimum of a 650W good quality brand PSU, allowing for the additional storage devices and screen 750W would be more appropriate, having looked in you part of the world the best unit that I could find is the one here less expensive than many 750W units, marginally more expensive than a few that only have a five year warranty and the Seasonic having a ten tear warranty means that it should still be around should you decide to build a new rig.

MadoX said:

I didn't know how to do that, didn't think it was necessary either. Is there a way to do it now, to kind of save it ? Or do I have to do a clean reinstall of windows ?

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As is explained in my reply #7 the reason why this procedure is so important is the chipset is what enables the MB to be able to communicate with all the hardware + are the first drivers that Windows looks for on boot.

Just a fyi, Windows should always be installed on either its own drive or on a separate partition on a larger drive, this reduces the amount of free space that is required to be kept available + it makes creating a regular back a whole lot easier.

A 256GB SSD or separate partition on a larger capacity drive should be the minimum capacity allowed for

Click to expand...

Once Windows has been clean installed you must then install first the MBs chipset drivers then the storage/SATA drivers and third the graphics drivers, the drivers can either come from a disk provided by the motherboard manufacturer or downloaded from their site and saved to a flash drive etc, this is a must and Windows should not be allowed to check for updates before it has been done as more often than not Windows installs the wrong drivers or in the incorrect order and this can cause all sorts of problems

Click to expand...

Do the above preparation work as in saving the required drivers.

Back up what you need from the C: drive.

Reset Windows choosing the Remove everything option, see info here

Once done, disconnect the PC from the router, restart the PC and install the drivers in the order listed above.

Once the drivers have been correctly installed, shutdown the PC, reconnect the PC to the router, restart and test by using the computer as you normally would.

Post back with an update for us once the above has been done.

Have you swapped in an appropriate Spec of PSU yet.

If you still require assistance, post a new Speccy url for us.

@MadoX - any news?

No follow up from the OP, thread marked and closed.