In Progress Sudden Shutdowns and Immediate Reboots

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Francespo

PCHF Member
Jan 6, 2025
47
2
Problem Description:
Hi everyone, I'm seeking help with an issue I'm experiencing with my PC. The computer shuts down and immediately reboots by itself, without any error messages, usually shortly after the first startup of the day, and always during low-load situations, like idling or browsing.

Problem Timeline:
  • Spring/Summer: I noticed the first sudden shutdowns and reboots. I tried resolving the issue by replacing the power supply, but I'm not sure if it was the actual cause.
  • Temporary Fix: After trying a few things (unfortunately, I can't remember exactly what), the problem seemed to go away for a while.
  • October/November: The issue returned. Learning about the problems related to Intel CPUs, I contacted Intel support and got a replacement CPU.
  • Current Situation: Even with the new CPU, the problem persists.
PC Configuration:
  • Motherboard: MSI Z790-P Pro WiFi
  • CPU: Intel i7-13700KF
  • GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti
  • SSD: Seagate FireCuda 530
  • Operating System: Windows 11
What I’ve Tried So Far:
  • Replaced the power supply in spring.
  • Replaced the CPU in November.
  • Tested the RAM with Memtest86: no issues found.
Useful Details:
  • The shutdowns and reboots don’t happen under load but during low-load situations like idling or browsing.
  • There are no error messages or blue screens.
  • Here are the event logs of the last week, the crash event is the one ID 41 - Latest7DaysCrashes.evtx
Does anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this? Could it be related to another component (motherboard, power supply, etc.) or a software configuration issue? Could the issue possibly be related to a virus?

If you have other troubleshooting advice I'll be more than happy to follow them. Thank you very much for any suggestions!
 
  • RAM: 2 Patriot Viper Venom 6000MHz DDR5 16GB modules, currently running at 4800MHz because I reset the BIOS settings to avoid interference with troubleshooting.
 
Welcome to PCHF.

PC Configuration:
  • Motherboard: MSI Z790-P Pro WiFi
  • CPU: Intel i7-13700KF
  • GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4070 Ti
  • SSD: Seagate FireCuda 530
  • Operating System: Windows 11

Missing from your parts list is the most important component of all, can we have the brand and model name or number of the PSU, both the old and the new.

RAM: 2 Patriot Viper Venom 6000MHz DDR5 16GB modules, currently running at 4800MHz because I reset the BIOS settings to avoid interference with troubleshooting.

The RAM is not appropriate for your CPU, Intel state here up to DDR5 5200MHz/MT/s and if you have XMP enabled the RAM will get auto OCd past what the CPU can handle and the PC will become unstable.

How has the PC been with the RAM at 4800MHz.

In addition to the above, be sure to have the Windows Power Plan set to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power.
 
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Welcome to PCHF.



Missing from your parts list is the most important component of all, can we have the brand and model name or number of the PSU, both the old and the new.



The RAM is not appropriate for your CPU, Intel state here up to DDR5 5200MHz/MT/s and if you have XMP enabled the RAM will get auto OCd past what the CPU can handle and the PC will become unstable.

How has the PC been with the RAM at 4800MHz.

In addition to the above, be sure to have the Windows Power Plan set to Balanced, Ultra and High Performance are a form of overclocking that is known to cause stability and overheating issues, the setting should only be used for gaming type notebooks that have a discrete GPU that needs the extra power.
Hi thank you for the help first of all.

My current PSU is a Corsair rm850x, the previous one was one made by Technoware, now they don't sell PSUs anymore, I remember it being 800w and certified 80 Plus Gol, browsing online I can pretty surely tell is this one https://www.ebay.it/itm/13397927398...55K6omQSjmSvFxk8oCML3FyR_X3GnzXhoCmLMQAvD_BwE

I just changed my power plan to balanced from ultra performance.

Regarding RAMs I'm having some issues understanding what you are saying to me since I'm no OC expert at all, all I can tell you is that I previously set the RAM speed to 6000MHz from the bios since I thought I should match the nominal speed, I kept it at 6000 until some weeks ago when I restored all BIOS settings to default. A few days ago I also made sure to disable XMP (even though I don't really know what this is) before testing the RAM with memtest86 since I read that XMP could cause instability.
The computer kept crashing even with the RAM set at 4800Mhz.
 
Regarding the first PSU, there is one thing that is possibly worse than using a known poor quality brand of PSU and that is using one that is unheard of, for brands of PSU to trust and brands to avoid please refer to the links in my sig, the replacement Corsair is a goodso fingers crossed that the previous supply has not caused any damage.

XMP is normally fine but only as long as the speed of the RAM compliments the CPU, see my canned info below;

A CPU must be compatible with a MB whereas the RAM has to be compatible with both the CPU and the MB, this because a MB can be compatible with faster CPUs than the one in your list of parts and MB manufacturers often state RAM speeds that far exceed that which any compatible CPU can handle, this is misleading at the least or dishonest at worst.

The computer kept crashing even with the RAM set at 4800Mhz.

Describe what happened exactly, why this is important we know is explained in another canned info below;

Software such as Windows can crash and when it does crash you get a BSOD and when enabled a crash dmp is generated, programs or games when they crash can on occasion close to the desktop but the computer will still be 100% functional.

Hardware failure such as a weak power supply and/or overheating are not software related and when a computer for example suddenly turns off, freezes or the screen goes black etc the behaviour should be described as the "computer shut down unexpectedly" or froze etc and not as having crashed as the latter implies a software issue as opposed to an obvious hardware issue when described properly.

Having the correct info means that helpers will not be looking for a software issue when the problem is clearly hardware related.
 
Regarding the first PSU, there is one thing that is possibly worse than using a known poor quality brand of PSU and that is using one that is unheard of, for brands of PSU to trust and brands to avoid please refer to the links in my sig, the replacement Corsair is a goodso fingers crossed that the previous supply has not caused any damage.

XMP is normally fine but only as long as the speed of the RAM compliments the CPU, see my canned info below;





Describe what happened exactly, why this is important we know is explained in another canned info below;
Ok, I wasn't aware of the technical difference between a crash and a sudden shutdown, but it's definitely the latter in my case. Even with the ram speed in BIOS set at 4800MHz, my PC continued oftentimes suddenly shutting down and rebooting immediately. I'll give you the most thorough description of the issue with all the info I've collected so far:

The computer suddenly shuts down and immediately reboots by itself. This happens mainly the first time I start the computer in the morning, about 1 or 2 minutes after I turn it on. Alternatively, it can also happen after a few hours of being on, if the PC stays idle for a long time.

I also noticed that, apparently, if I perform a CPU-intensive task right after starting the computer, the issue doesn’t seem to occur. Today, out of curiosity, I turned on the PC several times and ran a CPU, FPU, and cache stress test on AIDA64 Extreme for the first few minutes after booting, and the computer didn’t shut down. I should mention that I didn’t do this stress test the first time I powered the computer on today (the time when the issue is most likely to happen). Tomorrow, when I turn the computer on again for the first time, I’ll try running another stress test to see if the computer shuts down.

Additionally, a few days ago, I left the computer in sleep mode overnight (something I rarely do), and when I turned it on the next morning, the sudden shutdown happened more frequently than usual, at least two or three times in a row, which is the same rate I reached before changing the CPU after the RMA.
 
Can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed,, thanks.

Avoid running stress tests at all costs, this unless you have money to burn as all that those tests do is bring about a premature end of life for your hardware,extreme OCers who have and think nothing of frying CPUs are the only ones who should concern themselves with such programs.

I will be going offline soon as I've had a long day, see if you can get the below done for us before I go;

Download MiniToolBox and save the file to the Desktop.

Close the browser and run the tool, check the following options;

List last 10 Event Viewer Errors
List Installed Programs
List Devices (Only Problems)
List Users, Partitions and Memory size

Click on Go.

Post the resulting log in your next reply for us if you will.
 
Code:
Faulting module name: ucrtbase.dll, version: 10.0.26100.1882, time stamp: 0xfad28871

That module is part of the Visual C++ Runtimes. I can't seem to find which version the Galaxy gaming Client uses.
I would download and install the latest to see if that will help. It won't hurt anything.
 
With the amount of Windows errors you have I would be starting afresh but this time putting Windows on its own partition.
 
That module is part of the Visual C++ Runtimes. I can't seem to find which version the Galaxy gaming Client uses.
I would download and install the latest to see if that will help. It won't hurt anything.
I think I already installed that because the setup asked me to change the installation, I repaired that, so let's see if this Galaxy client error keeps popping up.

I also noticed that, apparently, if I perform a CPU-intensive task right after starting the computer, the issue doesn’t seem to occur. Today, out of curiosity, I turned on the PC several times and ran a CPU, FPU, and cache stress test on AIDA64 Extreme for the first few minutes after booting, and the computer didn’t shut down. I should mention that I didn’t do this stress test the first time I powered the computer on today (the time when the issue is most likely to happen). Tomorrow, when I turn the computer on again for the first time, I’ll try running another stress test to see if the computer shuts down.
So I did. Interestingly, the computer didn't shut down. I also noticed that while I was performing the test (which lasted about 5 minutes), it interfered with my startup apps starting. Only a few of them did, while the others were only able to start once the test ended. Anyway, I'll avoid those tests as much as possible, as you suggested. Is this new information helpful in identifying the problem any further?\

With the amount of Windows errors you have I would be starting afresh but this time putting Windows on its own partition.
Do you think I should erase the whole C drive? I didn't know that was recommended to install Windows on its own partition, but if you think it could help me I'll do it, how big do you think I should keep the OS partition?
 
Reasons why Windows should always be installed on either its own drive or on a separate partition on a larger drive;

It reduces the amount of free space that is required to be kept available + it makes creating a regular back a whole lot easier.

It helps avoid corruption and malware attack.

Windows will boot up quicker on its own partition as it does not need to install drivers for any third party programs.

A 256GB SSD or separate partition on a larger capacity drive should be the minimum capacity allowed for.

You still have enough room on the C: drive to create such a partition and once things were confirmed as running smoothly you then delete the original Windows to free up the space.
 
Ok so tell me if I'm wrong. I create a new partition on the C drive and then I do a fresh Windows install on the newly created partition. Once I complete the installation may I copy my old data from the old windows to the new one? Or is it unsafe?

Is there a preferred way to perform a clean windows installation? A USB support? From Windows settings? From the advanced start-up menu? Something else I don't know about?

There is still something I didn't fully catch: From what you told me I understood that my issue is almost certainly a hardware-related one, so, did you suggest I do a fresh Windows install to address this issue? (if yes could you explain to me how?) Or I should perform this clean install to solve the other Windows-related issues that the software you pointed me to highlights?
 
Correct on the first part but not the second, if the personal data is important it should be backed up to at least one other drive and then do a custom install

How to install Windows 11 on a new partition while keeping the original C: is explained here by RobinsonSilvestre

I would encourage you to back up any important data from the C: drive before you do anything else.

You need a stable OS as a starting point.
 
Ok thanks, I'm going to do it ASAP, I'm facing another problem though: when I try to shrink the C drive to create a new partition for the OS it says I can only shrink 600MB even though I have more than 300GB of free space.

1736273577424.webp
 
Strange :unsure:

Can you upload an expanded screenshot of Disk Manager for us.

Access Disk Management via Run.

Press the Windows+R keys to open Run, type diskmgmt.msc in the empty box then press OK.

To capture and post a screenshot;

Click on the ALT key + PRT SCR key..its on the top row..right hand side..now click on start...all programs...accessories...paint....left click in the white area ...press CTRL + V...click on file...click on save...save it to your desktop...name it something related to the screen your capturing... BE SURE TO SAVE IT AS A .JPG ...otherwise it may be to big to upload... after typing in any response you have... click on Upload a File to add the screenshot.

Screenshot instructions are provided to assist those that may read this topic but are not yet aware of the “how to”.
 
Here it is, I read online that could be caused from the presence of some restore points since they are unmovable files
1736275291162.webp
 
Not sure about the restore point thing but we can see that there appears to be two drives missing and namely the 2TB Seagate Barracuda and the Patriot Burst.
 
Looks to be as I suspected but have to ask, have you previously had Windows installed on the Patriot Burst SSD, that would cause problems.