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Solved Motherboard Crashed and the Wi-Fi/HDMI don't work.

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Ryanchrono

PCHF Member
Jul 16, 2022
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So the other day, a custom computer I ordered arrived. After some time of setting up Windows I arrived at the desktop screen and unplugged my USB keyboard (a generic Logitech one). The computer immediately shut down and I could hear several worrying noises like it was dry heaving or struggling to do something. Afterward the computer would force itself into BIOS and after an hour, I set the boot to CSM and turned the Chassis system off, which then allowed me to return to the desktop screen. This is probably my biggest question out of the 3 issues. Is this whole situation something to worry about? I feel like my computer is on the verge of having something unrepairable happen with the motherboard or something. The fact that CSM is the only reason I can get back into my computer terrifies me because if I switch it to any other boot it forces me back into BIOS.

Also, just as a side issue (or two). The HDMI port on the motherboard does not work. When I plug the monitor into it, it says it cannot get an input signal. This happened to me before on another computer after the whole motherboard had shorted out (funny enough after I pulled a USB flash drive out). Does pulling a USB out cause these issues? The Wi-Fi on this thing doesn't work either. It will get internet if I plug an Ethernet cable into it, but the Wi-Fi option just wont work. It will say it 'Cannot connect to the network' even though all other devices will. I have tried resetting the network already.

Please help me, I really need help getting this fixed. I'm at my wits end trying to find google advice.

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming WiFi D4 LGA 1700 Intel 12th Gen ATX
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB 288-Pin PC RAM DDR4 3200
Power: CORSAIR CX-F RGB Series CX750F RGB 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Fully Modular
CPU: Intel Core i7-12700KF - Core i7 12th Gen Alder Lake 12-Core (8P+4E) 3.6 GHz LGA 1700 125W
Graphics: GIGABYTE Gaming OC GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB GDDR6 PCI Express 4.0
HHD: WD Blue 3TB Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 5400 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 256MB Cache 3.5
SSD: SAMSUNG 980 M.2 2280 1TB PCI-Express 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.4 V-NAND MLC
Cooler: MSI MAG Core Liquid 360R V2 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 360mm Radiator
 
I set the boot to CSM

Suggests a problem with the UEFI BIOS, Windows may have been installed in Legacy as opposed to UEFI.

and turned the Chassis system off,

What do you mean by the above.

The HDMI port on the motherboard does not work. When I plug the monitor into it

That is to be expected, you have an add on video card so by default the BIOS disables the onboard when an add on GPU is detected, in addition to this, for the MBs video ports to be able to provide video the CPU must have Intel HD video on die and your CPU being the KF version it does not have this capability.

I pulled a USB flash drive out). Does pulling a USB out cause these issues?

It most certainly can as it can cause a short circuit.


The Wi-Fi on this thing doesn't work either.

Unable to comment as we have no way of knowing what you may or may not have tried, a wireless ready MB has to be paired with a wireless router for it to be able to work and you make no mention of having done this, it is also best done when not already connected via the Ethernet port.

Power: CORSAIR CX-F RGB Series CX750F RGB 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Fully Modular

Got to ask, who is responsible for putting this PSU in such a high end build, what Corsair recommend the CX range of PSUs be used for copy/paste below;

CX Series Modular power supply units are an excellent choice for basic system builds and desktop PC computer upgrades, offering high reliability, low noise, and the flexibility of modular cabling.

This build should have a minimum of a Gold efficiency rated PSU or above, Corsair RM range, EVGA or Seasonic and with a minimum of a seven year warranty but preferably ten.
 
Suggests a problem with the UEFI BIOS, Windows may have been installed in Legacy as opposed to UEFI.

What do you mean by the above.

That is to be expected, you have an add on video card so by default the BIOS disables the onboard when an add on GPU is detected, in addition to this, for the MBs video ports to be able to provide video the CPU must have Intel HD video on die and your CPU being the KF version it does not have this capability.

It most certainly can as it can cause a short circuit.

Unable to comment as we have no way of knowing what you may or may not have tried, a wireless ready MB has to be paired with a wireless router for it to be able to work and you make no mention of having done this, it is also best done when not already connected via the Ethernet port.

Got to ask, who is responsible for putting this PSU in such a high end build, what Corsair recommend the CX range of PSUs be used for copy/paste below;

1. I did see a few legacy options when scrolling through the boot options. But when I try to use them it forces me into BIOS. Is this a problem to leave it with CSM or do I find a drive to change it?

2. I had to turn off the intrusion detection option (also called Chassis) because when it shut down after pulling out the USB it wouldnt even go to BIOS, it went to a message about securing the computer case causing a fatal error. I had to take out the motherboard battery to reset it.

3. So the hdmi port is useless until I get an upgraded CPU?

4. This is a huge problem cause I move USB's alot with flash drives. But removing the USB keyboard was the very first time it happened. If it cause a short circuit, is it damaged now? Will it cause issues later? This is kind of my biggest worry. Cause sometimes when the computer enters sleep mode it will lose the input signal to the monitor and was wondering if it was related.

5. Is there a simple way to pair it?

6. Well I guess I'm responsible? The computer is custom built from Newegg and it was one of the cheapest I could find with a good Watt power. Is this power supply going to cause an issue?

Thank you for your replies and I hope to learn more about these issues.
 
Who installed Windows on the computer, it needs closer scrutiny.

Chassis intrusion info now makes sense, most people do not have it enabled on their own PCs that are only used at home.

The HDMI port will not work even with an upgraded CPU when there is an add on GPU in the board, it is perfectly normal so is not correct to say that the HDMI port is useless.

Using the safely remove feature before removing USB devices is primarily intended to protect the data on USB storage devices and unplugging a keyboard should not be an issue, if this keyboard was in use when the previous MB went bad I would look to be getting a new keyboard.

How to pair a wireless PC and router explained here

Are you saying that you purchased the PC from Newegg pre assembled and that it was them that chose/fitted the PSU.

Corsair are a good brand of PSU but users must stick with using the PSUs for the use that is advised by Corsair, RGB lights are a distraction from the fact that the PSU is only Bronze efficiency rated and therefore as advised by Corsair only any good for "basic system builds and desktop PC computer upgrades" if it wasn`t a Corsair and a newer model I wold have suggested you not even turn on the PC until an appropriate PSU had been swapped in.

You are welcome but can I ask that you do not quote every reply as we have to read the full post to make sure nothing gets missed,, thanks.
 
Sorry about the quoting.
For the PSU, I ordered through their 'build to assemble' option, where you pick parts and then they assemble it for you before shipping it. I tried to pick the best parts for my budget and assumed 750 would be enough. Most other options were pretty expensive for differences that I didn't fully understand aside from being module differences. They were the ones who also installed Windows prior to shipping it.

What is the safety remove feature? Is that what caused my computer to shut down like that? Is there a way to remove the USB's without having it do this? Cause the noises it made were very worrying (a lot of 'vrrrrr' sounds, both short and long in timing). In fact, when I restart my computer it still gives a short 'vrrrrrrr' noise. Should I be worried? Apologies if I seem super paranoid, I just dont want the fact that this short circuit happened and caused a problem that will ruin the motherboard. I'm hoping I don't have to return it.

For pairing the device to the router. I followed the steps in your link, however when it comes to using the wizard to setup a new network, the computer doesn't show any options from the close networks. I also checked the device manager and there are no network files that have 'wireless' in it. So I tried downloading the wireless file from the Rog Strix website (specifically for my motherboard) and it was the Wi-Fi file that was already there, which I tried using but still didn't show options. In fact, there isn't even a Nvidia Control Panel installed.

I'm also a little concerned still about this Legacy issue. Is it going to cause problems to leave the computer on CSM mode? Should I find a way to convert the computer to UEFI (if that's even possible), because if that's ever turned off I'm forced into BIOS. Would I have to factory reset and reinstall windows entirely? A small side question too, when I leave my computer on BIOS and it goes to sleep mode the monitor will lose its input signal from the computer and I have to shut down and restart the computer for it to come back. Does that mean anything or is that normal?

Thanks!
 
What is the safety remove feature?

When you have a USB thumbdrive or external HDD connected there will be an additional icon on the taskbar, you click on the icon when you wish to disconnect the device and when it is safe to disconnect you get an onscreen message saying it is safe to disconnect, the idea behind this is to hep to prevent data loss.

For anything else that you mention, we need to see how and what has been set up on the computer, nothing we can do about any odd noises that the PC may be making, Newegg are the ones that you need to be taking that up with as you can`t go opening up the case because you will void any warranty should you start poking around inside.

Download then run Speccy (free) and post the resultant url for us, details here, this will provide us with information about your computer hardware + any software that you have installed that may explain the present issue/s.

To publish a Speccy profile to the Web:

In Speccy, click File, and then click Publish Snapshot.

In the Publish Snapshot dialog box, click Yes to enable Speccy to proceed.

Speccy publishes the profile and displays a second Publish Snapshot. You can open the URL in your default browser, copy it to the clipboard, or close the dialog box.
 
Something is not right there :unsure:

Flash drives
USB DISK 2.0 USB Device
Interface: USB
Capacity: 14.4 GB

Real size: 15,513,354,240 bytes
RAID Type: None
S.M.A.R.T
S.M.A.R.T not supported
Partition 0
Partition ID: Disk #2, Partition #0
Disk Letter: E:
File System: FAT32
Volume Serial Number: 1CF0492A
Size: 14.4 GB
Used Space: 8.47 GB (58%)
Free Space: 5.97 GB (42%)

What is on this device.
 
Ah, that was the USB flash drive that I used to put Speccy on the other computer. It doesn't have internet unless I swap the ethernet cable over to it. I'll admit I didn't think clearly and just swap the cable over to the other computer and download the app directly to it. I just used the drive to swap the file over before swapping the cable. It isn't kept on the computer at all. The rest that's on it is photos and a few old RPG games.
 
Well that does not explain what looks amiss I`m afraid.

Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-bit
Computer type: Desktop
Installation Date: 7/7/2022 9:12:23 AM

Hotfixes
Installed
7/14/2022 2022-03 Update for Windows 10 Version 21H2 for x64-based Systems (KB4591272)
Install this update to resolve issues in Windows. For a complete
listing of the issues that are included in this update, see the
associated Microsoft Knowledge Base article for more information.
After you install this item, you may have to restart your computer.

There is only the one Windows 10 update, no Windows Defender updates and likewise not a single system driver shown to have been installed since Windows 10 was.

Once Windows has been clean installed you must then install first the MBs chipset drivers, then the storage/SATA drivers and third the graphics drivers, the drivers can either come from a disk provided by the motherboard manufacturer or downloaded from their site and saved to a flash drive etc, this is a must and Windows should not be allowed to check for updates before it has been done as more often than not Windows installs the wrong drivers or in the incorrect order and this can cause all sorts of problems.

Samsung SSD 980 1TB (SSD)
Manufacturer: SAMSUNG
Interface: Unknown
Capacity: 931 GB
Real size: 1,000,204,886,016 bytes
RAID Type: None
S.M.A.R.T
S.M.A.R.T not supported
Partition 0
Partition ID: Disk #1, Partition #0
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 324C3A44
Size: 49 MB
Used Space: 30.3 MB (60%)
Free Space: 19.7 MB (40%)
Partition 1
Partition ID: Disk #1, Partition #1
Disk Letter: C:
File System: NTFS

Volume Serial Number: 6E4CCE4A
Size: 930 GB
Used Space: 43 GB (4%)
Free Space: 887 GB (96%)
Partition 2
Partition ID: Disk #1, Partition #2
File System: NTFS
Volume Serial Number: 904B761D
Size: 508 MB
Used Space: 424 MB (83%)
Free Space: 84 MB (17%)

We can tell from the above that Windows was installed in Legacy Mode, if it were in UEFI there would be a FAT32 partition on the drive.
 
Ok, before I attempt to do anything, could you please tell me the order at which I should do these things? You said once Windows has been 'clean installed', what does this mean? Do I need to factory reset? If I have to reinstall windows then I will have to get a USB DVD drive (the computer does not have an installed DVD drive. When ordering the PC they only had DVD versions of Windows, but said they would install the OS during assembly so I didn't think much of it. However I don't have a problem ordering the DVD drive as long as this should fix a lot of my issues with the network and ensuring the PC is 'finally' put together properly.
I'm also not sure what the FAT32 partition means. Is this also a potential issue? Should the computer be reformatted to UEFI? I assume if I'm reinstalling windows that I have the option to swap?

Apologies for asking so much, but you guys are the ONLY people who have been so professional in understanding the issues that I've had and I want to learn as much as possible about the RIGHT way to do these things. Otherwise I got to return the pc.
 
Some good news for you at least but likewise I would still like to know why there is only the one Windows 10 update, no Defender updates which means that the PC has not had a malware scan and likewise why there are no drivers shown to have been installed, a real unprofessional job and if Newegg sent a machine out like that shame on them.

The good news is that Legacy is fine and you don`t need to reinstall Windows, the below from your OP;

After some time of setting up Windows

Can I ask what you mean by the above.
 
When I first started up the pc, there was a process of starting up Windows 10 that involved me logging into my windows account to begin a setup process. It was very annoying because it forced me to reset my password twice even though it was correct both times. Then it began doing whatever it wanted to do before heading to the desktop screen.
Do you think I should return the computer at this point, or is this whole thing savable? Cause I don't mind doing the work to keep it from exploding, but I just need to be told what exactly to do. Cause the computer is also telling me there isn't even a Nvidia control panel on this thing. How much more work does it need?
 
How much more work does it need?

The computer should have been good to go from the minute you got it and to get where you are now suggests one of two things, it was sent to you without having first been set up properly or alternatively Windows has has been reset which would explain why there are no drivers, or Defender updates.

All that we can do here is advise you on how to install the missing drivers, other than that you need to contact Newegg if you have concerns about the hardware, the PC should not be making any sort of noise other than the fans working.
 
I wonder if that short circuit might have caused some kind of reset or ruined some data.
Should Windows be asking me to update or something? Cause it hasn't prompted me for anything aside from the Nvidia Control Panel. You mentioned I should install the drivers before allowing Windows to finish updating correct? Is the order you stated above all there is to know about what to install? Cause the motherboard website has quite a bit more drivers that I'm unsure about. Now that I think about it, do I need to install EVERY type of driver for all systems too?!
This is the Motherboard Drive website for fast reference:
 
A short circuit would have properly broken something as in hosed the PC beyond repair.

Create a new System Restore point before you do anything.

Get yourself a USB thumbdrive that you can use for downloading the following drivers to.

The drivers that you should download and install from here are in the order that they should be installed.

(1) Chipset.

(2) SATA.

(3) VGA.

(4) Wireless.

Post back with an update after installing the drivers and restarting the PC a couple of times.
 
I installed the Chipset and the SATA, but came across a problem when trying to install the VGA. After the pre-setup, it makes you agree to its TOS, then tries to configure. But it gave me an error message immediately.
"No driver was found that can be installed on the current device. Exit Code: 8"
 
I installed the wireless and nothing has changed while trying to connect to the router. I've tried resetting the network and typing in the password but it doesn't register the network. I also took a quick look at the device manager and saw that the drive doesn't say 'wireless' on it, just Wi-Fi.
 
. I also took a quick look at the device manager and saw that the drive doesn't say 'wireless' on it, just Wi-Fi.

Wi-Fi is what it should be saying.

Do you not have a handbook for your wireless router, that will tell you how to connect the router to the PC with the router having a button on it that you press that then gets the router to scan for new devices, i this case your PC.
 
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