Solved Freezing

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Doylecan

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I recently installed an ssd for my C drive windows 10 only and all programs and games go on my E drive HDD.
Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-bit
CPU
AMD Ryzen 3 41 °C
Raven Ridge 14nm Technology
RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 266MHz (15-15-15-35)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. PRIME B350M-A (AM4) 43 °C
Graphics
SAMSUNG ([email protected])
ASUS VE278 ([email protected])
8192MB ATI Radeon RX 580 Series (ASUStek Computer Inc) 51 °C
Storage
931GB Seagate ST1000DM010-2EP102 (SATA ) 35 °C
465GB Samsung SSD 860 EVO 500GB (SATA (SSD)) 34 °C
698GB Hitachi HGST HTS 541075A9E680 USB Device (USB (SATA) ) 35 °C
Optical Drives
No optical disk drives detected
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

I have been freezing regularly over the last 2 months, sometimes when I am in a game, sometimes if I have a game open, but I am working in another program, sometimes when a game isn't even running. I thought with a new 8gb video card, 16gb ram, I should be able to handle anything.

I wiped the ssd this week, reinstalled windows and have a very fresh system. Still freezing, forcing me to do a hard reset. No crash dump info, no error window, no blue screen, just freezes. Temp seems good on the cpu and gpu, can't find source of problem. Need help. Please. I can provide further info if necessary. Desperate.

Edit by phillpower2: Removed Windows product key from Speccy for security.
 

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phillpower2

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Can you post the brand and model name or number of the PSU for us.
 

Doylecan

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Good Morning, Thank you for your assistance. My PSU is a Cooler Master, Masterwatt Lite 600, model MPX-6001-ACAAW.
 

phillpower2

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Freezing is most often caused by something overheating and this includes a weak PSU that gets too hot, adding new hardware such as the 8GB video card can make things worse I`m afraid :(

I would suggest that while you are troubleshooting this that you safely disconnect the USB HDD when you are not using it, it will reduce the power demands on the PSU and be less likely to cause any conflicts between programs.

Not a good choice of PSU for your video card + the additional storage devices that you have, the Cooler Master brand is not a recommended one and the unit that you have is not even Bronze efficiency rated which is a must even for older add on video cards but your more modern RX 580 Series should really be supported by a quality brand Gold efficiency rated PSU, I will get to the PSU output below;

Operating System
Windows 10 Home 64-bit
Computer type: Desktop
Installation Date: 2019-11-27 10:01:53 AM After clean installing Windows to the SSD did you also install the drivers for the MB and starting with the chipset drivers first.

AVG Antivirus
Antivirus Enabled AVG is a known resource hog and known to cause users issues, Windows own Defender and Firewall are better, do not hog resources and do not cause conflicts, is AVG the free version.

+12V 11.772 V This PSU reading is low for a computer that is not under any load and may drop significantly once the add on video card cranks up, we will look at this further along the way.

Partition 0
Partition ID Disk #1, Partition #0
File System NTFS
Volume Serial Number A83482FF
Size 578 MB
Used Space 439 MB (75%)
Free Space 139 MB (25%)
Partition 1
Partition ID Disk #1, Partition #1
Disk Letter C:
File System NTFS
Volume Serial Number 8235A6CA
Size 465 GB
Used Space 41 GB (8%)
Free Space 423 GB (92%

Do you happen to also have Windows on the Hitachi USB HDD and how did you install Windows 10 to the new SSD, Legacy or UEFI mode and was it on DVD disk or a USB thumb drive etc, reason why I ask is because Windows 10 sets up three partitions when it installs and one of them is File type FAT32, there is no such FAT32 partition on your SSD device.

You are welcome btw :)
 
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Doylecan

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Thank you Phil, I am taking action, I am getting my RX580 tested, I was told that my 600W power supply was enough, but I hadn't been told about the info you have provided. I will test with a higher quality PSU. I will update again with my results. Thanks again.
 

Doylecan

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Also,
I had my local computer shop guy, (not a bigbox store, a small retail and repair shop) install windows for me so he could also take a peek at how my setup was performing. I can't say if the chipset drivers were installed first. I have uninstalled AVG, used it for at least 15 years, never had an issue with it, but in this case, I want to streamline as much as possible. AVG was the free version.
I do not have windows on the Hitachi. UEFI install, it would have been installed by him on a thumb drive I imagine but can find out Monday.
 

phillpower2

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A good quality brand 600W PSU with at least a Bronze efficiency rating you may have gotten away with but not a PSU from a lesser brand with only an 80+ rating, one simple tip for making sure that you are getting a decent PSU from one of the better brands, check how long the warranty period is, 5yrs is a must, 7yrs is great and 10 or more years is the best, you don`t get such a warranty with lesser brands as they use OEM components, cheap capacitors and thinner wire so they tend to get hot inside when put under load.

Can you post an expanded screenshot of Disk Manager with the USB HDD connected to the PC "how to" below;

Access Disk Management via Run.

Press the Windows+R keys to open Run, type diskmgmt.msc in the empty box then press OK.

To capture and post a screenshot;

Click on the ALT key + PRT SCR key..its on the top row..right hand side..now click on start...all programs...accessories...paint....left click in the white area ...press CTRL + V...click on file...click on save...save it to your desktop...name it something related to the screen your capturing... BE SURE TO SAVE IT AS A .JPG ...otherwise it may be to big to upload... after typing in any response you have... click on Upload a File to add the screenshot.

Screenshot instructions are provided to assist those that may read this topic but are not yet aware of the “how to”.

You are welcome btw :)

Tip
If using a computer and not a mobile phone, please avoid adding multiple posts while waiting for us to reply to your last, edit your last post to include anything that you wish to add, this will ensure nothing gets overlooked which can sometimes happen if a thread has more than one page, it avoids filling up folks inbox and last but not least it amounts to bumping your thread which puts folk to the bottom of any reply list.
 

phillpower2

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Any update for us? This thread will be closed if not replied to within 48hrs.
 

Doylecan

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Sorry for my delay, I had my computer in the shop for awhile getting looked at and tested, I will update later today for sure. Thank you for your patience.
 

Doylecan

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I am confused about my power supply, the attachment shows the specs and they show an 80+ efficiency rating. I have also put a new video Card, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, and I had a couple freezes since, but nowhere near as many, so I can't say for sure what the source of the freezing is, and no one that has looked at my system can say either. Sorry for image quality but you can make most of the info out.
 

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phillpower2

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I am confused about my power supply,
Sorry but I prefer to give a straight answer as I will do here, the present PSU is complete junk and is in fact so bad that it is on the PSU Lemon List, a brief of what is said;

ineffective undervolt protection leading to hardware breaking crossload voltage regulation; requires more minimum load than Haswell and newer CPUs need for advanced sleep states; out of spec 5V ripple; third tier capacitors; some soldering related issues; 3.3V regulation was not very good; 230V only; 3 year warranty except for four countries that get 5 years

Check the rest for yourself here

I have also put a new video Card, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, and I had a couple freezes since, but nowhere near as many, so I can't say for sure what the source of the freezing is,
Entirely up to you if you disregard the advice that has been provided, you have replaced the GPU with one that requires less power and say that the freezes are less frequent, if that is not enough of a clue then I`m not sure what is.
 

Doylecan

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I'm not disregarding anything, I just provided my info. I wanted to make sure that I gave you the correct info. Thanks for your help.
 

phillpower2

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Apologies if I appeared a bit sharp but we are trying to help you save time, grief and money and introducing a new high end GPU to a system that has a poor quality power supply was not what was suggested and in fact is the last thing that you should be doing tbh.

You are welcome.
 

Doylecan

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Well, like I mentioned, the original video card was sent for testing, the testing was going to take a few weeks, so I had the option of continuing with the onboard gpu or try another one while the other one was being tested. I chose to go the route I did and did not have the funds available to do both, Also the specs on the PSU contradicted what you said, showing 80+ rating, only introducing one variable at a time. Next move is to get the tested card back with result, if card is bad, keep new card, upgrade PSU. If card was good, keep old card or upgrade card and upgrade PSU. Money is also a variable otherwise this would not have been an issue.
 

phillpower2

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I just hope that you do not end up with two damaged video cards.

A good quality brand 600W PSU with at least a Bronze efficiency rating you may have gotten away with but not a PSU from a lesser brand with only an 80+ rating,
The specs on the PSU do not contradict what was said, they confirm it, 80+ is a trademark and a PSU stamped with only that standard is not suitable for anything more than an entry level office type computer, for any new GPU a Gold efficiency rated PSU is recommended something that you can confirm for yourself here
 

Doylecan

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Thanks for the info, I am going today to try and return the CoolerMaster PSU, and return the replacement GPU inside the 15 day window for returns, even though I don't have my AMD card back yet from testing. I will hopefully be able to return the PSU and hopefully get a Gold rated model as listed on the links you provided. I will update again.
 

phillpower2

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If you cannot return the PSU I would use it with the onboard video until you get your add on video card back, the Cooler Master PSU should be ok with that as entry level computers normally only have an integrated video chip and that is why the big brand names cheap out on the PSU, most often with either a 350W or claimed 500W generic unit shipped in from China :mad:

You are welcome btw.
 
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